Login Area

Archive 

Updates on alternative testing methods to animal testing for cosmetics testing published by the DG-Joint Research Centre of the European Commission, Institute for Health and Consumer Protection.

In 2010, the Commission appointed a panel of experts to report on the current status and future prospects on alternative (non-animal) methods for cosmetics testing, and to provide realistic estimates of the time required for the development of alternative methods where not already existing. The resulting expert panel report underwent a period of public consultation. The European Centre for the Validation of Alternative Methods (ECVAM), hosted by the Institute for Health and Consumer Protection of the European Commission's Joint Research Centre, coordinated the whole review activity on behalf of the Commission's Directorate General for Health and Consumers.
The final results of the work, published as a series of scientific articles in a peer-reviewed journal, highlight the most important findings of the experts and will be an important input for the Commission's report to the Parliament expected in mid-2011.The experts concluded that considerable scientific challenges have to be overcome before a full replacement of animal tests will be possible. Whereas substantial progress has been made over the past years, they predict that, for five specific areas, alternative methods to fully replace animal tests will not be available by 2013. However, the experts noted that significant contributions to reduce, refine and partially replace animal testing have been made and are feasible before full substitution is possible.
The report is available at the following link:
http://ihcp.jrc.ec.europa.eu/our_activities/alt-animal-testing/report_2010/fulltext.pdf
Archives of Toxicology vol. 85 pp. 367–485 (2011)

Ancient Egyptian cosmetics: “Magical” makeup may have been medicine for eye disease

There’s more to the eye makeup that gave Queen Nefertiti and other ancient Egyptian royals those stupendous gazes and legendary beauty than meets the eye. Scientists in France are reporting that the alluring eye makeup also may have been used to help prevent or treat eye disease by doubling as an infection-fighter. Their findings are scheduled for the next (Jan. 15, 2010) issue of the American Chemical Society (ACS) semi-monthly journal, Analytical Chemistry.
Christian Amatore, Philippe Walter, and colleagues note that thousands of years ago the ancient Egyptians used lead-based substances as cosmetics, including an ingredient in black eye makeup. Some Egyptians believed that this makeup also had a “magical” role in which the ancient gods Horus and Ra would protect wearers against several illnesses. Until now, however, modern scientists largely dismissed that possibility, knowing that lead-based substances can be quite toxic.
Queen Nefertiti and other ancient
Egyptian women may have worn
heavy makeup to protect against
eye infections that were a constant threat in the time of the pharaohs.
Credit: Wikimedia Commons
In earlier research, the scientists analyzed 52 samples from ancient Egyptian makeup containers preserved in the Louvre museum in Paris. They identified four different lead-based substances in the makeup. In the new study, they found that the substances boosted production of nitric oxide by up to 240 per cent in cultured human skin cells. Modern scientists recognize nitric oxide as a key signalling agent in the body. Its roles include revving-up the immune system to help fight disease. Eye infections caused by bacteria can be a serious problem in tropical marshy areas such as the Nile area during floods, the scientists note. Therefore, the ancient Egyptians may have deliberately used these lead-based cosmetics to help prevent or treat eye disease, the researchers suggest, noting that two of the compounds do not occur naturally and must have been synthesized by ancient Egyptian “chemists.”
“The present data thus establish that the eyes of Egyptians bearing the black makeup were presumably prone to immediately resist a sudden bacterial contamination with extreme efficiency through the spontaneous action of their own immune cells. Indeed, it is well recognized today that in most tropical marshy areas, such as was the Nile area during floods, several bacterial infections are transmitted to humans following any accidental projection of contaminated water drops into one’s eye. These data fully support that Horus’ and Ra’s protection that ancient Egyptians associated with this makeup and particularly with its laurionite component was real and effective, despite the fact that its “magic” implications seemed a priori totally irreconcilable with our modern scientific views and contrast with our present understanding of the toxicity of lead ions. One cannot evidently go as far as to propose that laurionite was purposely introduced into the composition of the makeup because of any recognized antibacterial properties. Yet, one can presume that ancient Egyptian “chemists” recognized empirically that whenever this “white precipitate” was present in the makeup paste, their bearers were enjoying better health and thus decided to amplify this empirical protective function by specifically manufacturing laurionite. Many examples of such subtle observations and medical conclusions that would have a priori been surprising can be found even in our recent history. It is sufficient, for example, to think about the historical origin of penicillin, aspirin, or quinine. . .
Anyway, whether or not the manufacture of these lead chlorides was deliberately connected to preventive health care by Egyptians, it is clear that such intentional production remains the first known example of a large scale chemical process. It is no wonder that “kemej,” the Egyptian word that referred to the Egyptian land and to the black earth of the Nile valley, was handed to us via the Greeks and then the Arabs to eventually coin our present ‘chemistry’.”
http://pubs.acs.org/stoken/presspac/presspac/full/10.1021/ac902348g

IN-COSMETICS 2011: EMOTIONS ON SHOW IN MILAN

Giulio Fezzardini, HPC today
- “Tu chiamale se vuoi: emozioni …. “ (“You can call them emotions, if you like…”). "It's the beginning of a very popular song in Italy.
You’re probably thinking that to start an article on a chemistry fair by quoting a song might be a bit bizarre. The quote actually comes to mind very easily and is a bit of a homage to the many visitors who, after far too many years (the last time was in 2004), came to Milan, Italy to visit a fair that is today a primary event in the sector: In -cosmetics. And this, for us who report on the fair, but also for all the Italian visitors, has indeed meant experiencing strong emotions.
A very successful event indeed this year, with important figures:
6850 visitors, 560 exhibitors over 10,897 m2, an increase compared to the beautiful Paris 2010 edition. Figures that are foreseen to keep on growing, given the positive trend of an industry sector that has overcome the difficult moments of the recent great crisis without any losses, but actually with increased sales. It is all about meeting a demand for products that are necessary to our lives, and even though through a heavy crisis, that are also required to meet a need for well-being, a need to pay more attention to oneself, to take more care for oneself. It is meeting a need for emotions - there you go again that Italian song coming up. And the sector has met the demands by taking proper action, through research, innovation, sustainability. Certainly not through slogans or advertising claims, but actually with true efforts, commitment, concrete investments, true responses.
The following are some of the official comments after the fair:
“ Always a popular addition to the programme, the Innovation Zone was brimming with creativity this year, bringing together 70 ingredients launched at the show or in the last six months. The new Innovation Zone Best Ingredient Award saw a selected number of exhibitors go head to head with their new innovations, judged by an independent panel of experts. In the end, Lipo Chemicals beat off stiff competition to win with its unique Liposhield™ HEV Melanin technology.
The in-focus feature explored the challenges in the development of sustainable cosmetics, from new concepts to sourcing, formulation, industrial processes and packaging while the new Sustainability Gallery highlighted 12 sustainable innovations, initiatives or policies developed by leading suppliers in the industry.
As always with in-cosmetics, the Regulatory and Innovation Seminars, Marketing Trend Presentations and Formulation Workshops were also packed with manufacturers and suppliers looking to equip themselves with the latest industry information. A new addition to the programme were the Scientific Seminars bringing hugely topical discussions in Nanotechnology, Biotechnology and Skin-ageing.
Speaking of the show’s success, in-cosmetics Group Marketing Manager Cathy Laporte commented: “The wide range of educational features and exhibitors, not to mention the thousands of visitors that descended on Milan, have really placed us once again at the forefront of the personal care ingredients market. With the cosmetics and beauty industry expected to grow 8.5 percent[2] by 2014, the show looks set to be a hit once again next year.”
The scientific organisation of the seminar on Biotechnology and Nanotechnology applications in Cosmetics was seen to by our journal, HPC today, on behalf of Reed Exhibitions Ltd. Seven speakers from academia, industry and European Institutions provided a complete overview on the topics.
Italian companies responded extremely well to the invitation to attend In-Cosmetics 2011, both well known and newer companies. In the end, the Italian sector operators were a third of all visitors, and not only because the event was held in Milan, but actually because the Italian personal care / cosmetic industry is one of the most important in the world, at least it certainly is as regards volumes. A normal summer holiday day along Italy’s extensive shores means millions of showers being taken, millions of shampoo products, sun creams, moisturisers, etc. being used. And it is is important for the quality it provides too. Quality, besides safety of use of the product, is ever more demanded by Italian end users. Consumers also look at the creativity efforts to present a product, to “dress” it nicely through the packaging design.
Let’s keep in mind that Italy means fashion, that the “made in Italy” brand is popular in the world. And In-cosmetics 2011 has also been the occasion to witness the recognition of the importance of Italy’s cosmetic sector. This recognition, for the members of the international press, like we are though based in Italy, has certainly been another strong emotion we’ve happily experienced. Walking the aisles of the fair has been most exciting. We have witnessed so many great communication efforts. New images, renewed stands. Image is key, of course, but it’s not just that. There’s a lot of hard work behind that image. Everybody wanted to take part into the communication. There was a positive anxiety to get across new messages. This is all done by the people working in this industry, who have strived to make In-Cosmetics 2011 – I’m sure you’ll forgive my reference to fashion given the fact we’re writing of Milan – the seasonal fashion show to showcase creativity to all those women and men that demand simple yet essential things of one’s everyday life to our sector: feeling well, appearing well, living well…… It feels good to be part of this result-achieving cycle. “You can call them emotions, if you like…”

Proud Russia Marks 50 Years Since Gagarin Triumph
12.04.2011

Half a century ago, a Russian carpenter's son named Yuri Gagarin became the first man in space, carving an indelible mark in human history and scoring the greatest Soviet Cold War success.
The 27-year-old's 108-minute flight on April 12, 1961 is still remembered in Russia even after the collapse of the Soviet Union as its greatest national achievement. His death in a plane crash seven years later only added to his mythical status.
Gagarin's safe return to earth in central Russia -- where he was famously given bread and milk by an astonished grandmother -- ensured he would live the rest of his life as a legend in Russia and abroad.
Hundreds of thousands flooded the streets of Moscow when news broke of his triumph, which confirmed the Soviet Union's undisputed supremacy in the space race, a lead it would keep for eight years until Americans walked on the moon.
The other-worldly allure of Gagarin is exemplified by the 40-metre-high (130-feet) titanium monument that still bears down on Moscow, his arms outstretched like a bionic superman and apparently preparing to shoot upwards into the sky.
Gagarin was confirmed as pilot just four days before launch, a choice which propelled him to stardom and the reserve Gherman Titov, who would later become the second Soviet cosmonaut in space, to relative obscurity.
His name also overshadows the mastermind of the mission, Sergei Korolev, who designed the equipment that took Gagarin to space yet whose role in the space programme was kept from the public as a state secret until his death in 1966.
When Gagarin was killed, a driving licence, 40 rubles and a photograph of Korolev were found in his pocket.
Few lives in modern history have been the subject of so much mythologising as that of Gagarin, with every aspect of his mission and subsequent life pored over in detail.
He took off at 9:07 am Moscow time from the Baikonur cosmodrome whose location in the south of Kazakhstan was tightly-kept secret.
He ejected and parachuted down to earth in the Saratov region of central Russia. The first people to make contact with the newly returned cosmonaut were peasant Anna Takhtarova and her four-year-old granddaughter Margarita.
"I looked round and saw this orange monster with a huge head coming towards us," Margarita recalled in an interview with tabloid daily Komsomolskaya Pravda.
"Grandma helped Yuri Gagarin take off his helmet -- she pressed some kind of button. And when we saw a smiling face in front of us we understood that it was a human being in front of us."
SOURCE:Russian Federal Space Agency - http://www.roscosmos.ru/

Strong Attendance at PCHi 2011 Indicates Industry Confidence 173 exhibitors re-booked for 2012 event in Shanghai

Beijing, 9 March 2011 | Personal Care and Homecare Ingredients (PCHi) 2011 concluded on a strong note. The first trade show of 2011 for the industry saw a record attendance of 4765 visitors and 243 exhibiting companies, of which 71% has already re-booked for the next year’s event. The three-day event, organised by Reed Sinopharm Exhibitions (RSE), was held for the first time in Shenzhen at the Shenzhen Convention & Exhibition Centre from 22 to 24 February 2011.
Project Director of PCHi, Daniel Chan, said, “We are delighted to witness PCHi’s steady growth in tandem with our visitors’ and exhibitors’ businesses. By lunch on the second day, bookings for next year’s edition already exceeded the floor area we had this year.”
“Our visitor numbers have also been consistently increasing over the years. This is a sign that more companies in the industry are beginning to recognise the important role that PCHi plays in the cosmetics and toiletries sector, and are confident with their investments here in China.”
Of the 4765 visitors at PCHi 2011, 4196 visitors (88%) came from within China, and the remaining 569 (12%) visited from 33 other countries. The figures reflect PCHi’s strong position as the place to be for companies looking to break into the Chinese market.
Satisfied Visitors and Exhibitors
Visitors and exhibitors alike were more than satisfied with their time at PCHi 2011.
Visitor Wu Weiwei, Scientist, Make-Up Lab, L’Oreal China, said, “We choose our partners very carefully, and PCHi provides a good platform for us to conduct our research of the exhibitors who could potentially be our partners. It is also a place for us to meet current suppliers and build on our existing relationships with them.”
For exhibitors, the event was a platform to showcase new products, represent their companies, and meet with current and potential customers. The show provides local players an opportunity to meet with international buyers.
Clark Pu, Key Client Manager at Great Chemicals, shared, “I think PCHi 2011 is a great opportunity for us to represent ourselves to the industry. We used to contact our clients and partners only using email and phone calls. The show gives us the opportunity to meet them face-to-face. We have met several international media and brands that were very interested in our company, and look forward to working with us.”
PCHi 2011 also offered international companies a way to meet with local buyers.
Commented Isabelle Van Reeth, Global Technical Leader Skin AP Deo Segment-Life Science, Dow Corning, “PCHi is the only show in China that Dow Corning exhibits at. We have been here since 2008 and we feel that it is an important platform to reach domestic customers. The event allows us to see domestic customers that we don’t have regular access to. It is a good investment and we feel that for this part of the world, PCHi is the one event to attend.”
PCHi 2011 Booth Awards
For the fourth year running, industry media that attended PCHi selected a handful of exhibitors to receive the annual Booth Awards. This year’s winners are:
Buzziest Booth: Guangzhou Tinci Materials Technology Co., Ltd
Best Communications: Dow Corning Company
Best Designed Shell Scheme: Hangzhou Boffo Import & Export Co., Ltd.
Best Designed Raw Scheme: Innospec Limited Beijing Rep. Office
The Awards Ceremony will take place at PCHi 2012.
PCHi 2012
The next edition of PCHi will be held in Shanghai at the World Expo Theme Pavilion from 27 to 29 February 2012. The venue was hailed by Lonely Planet in 2010 as a top international travel destination. Completed just recently in 2009, a unique characteristic of the pavilion is its solar energy system rooftop, the world’s largest, which generates electricity to operate the venue. RSE chose this new venue in line with its commitment to continually provide the best to PCHi exhibitors and visitors.
For the next event in Shanghai, 75% of the floor area has already been booked, and for 60 companies, PCHi 2012 will be their fifth consecutive year of exhibiting at the show.
“We are thankful to the exhibitors that have been our faithful supporters all these years,” shared Chan. “PCHi 2012 is in the very early stages of planning, but already it is drumming up excitement. We look forward to serving the industry even better come 2012. A few new elements were introduced at the recently concluded edition, and they have been successful. Our hope is to breathe even more fresh air into the next show, and see more regular exhibitors and visitors return to connect again at PCHi 2012.”

OECD announces new transparency and anti-corruption initiative – clean.gov.biz

The OECD is developing a new initiative to improve coordination of anti-corruption and transparency initiatives - first within its member countries, and then with all other relevant players, including governments, international organisations, NGOs and the private sector.
“We are developing a new initiative, clean.gov.biz, that will improve our own anti-corruption tools and reinforce their implementation,” OECD Deputy Secretary-General Richard Boucher said. “We then want to strengthen cooperation with all relevant players to ensure that our instruments complement those of our partners.”
Mr. Boucher discussed the initiative during the March 2-3 meeting of the Extractive Industries Transparency Initiative, hosted at the OECD, underlining how many of its elements complement EITI work. EITI aims to improve natural resource management and reduce corruption by encouraging oil, gas and mining companies to publish the fees, royalties and taxes they pay and commiting governments to transparency about what they receive.
The OECD is at the forefront of global anti-corruption efforts. In 2010, its 34 member countries and leading partners including Brazil and Russia agreed to a Declaration on Propriety, Integrity and Transparency in the Conduct of International Business and Finance. The Declaration is based on OECD instruments including the OECD Guidelines for Multinational Entreprises, which since 1975 set standards for business behavior, and the OECD Principles of Corporate Governance, which set out broad rules to guide business conduct.
The OECD Anti-Bribery Convention commits 38 signatory governments to establish bribery of foreign public officials as a criminal offence. OECD work on public procurement, public sector integrity, including on lobbying and conflicts of interest, as well as budget transparency is at the core of the reform agenda in a growing number of countries. “Political turmoil in highly corrupted regimes reminds us that citizens around the world will no longer accept corruption as business as usual,” Mr. Boucher said.
The OECD is also actively cooperating with the G20 in the implementation of its Action Plan on Anti-Corruption, which includes initiatives on foreign bribery, asset recovery, international cooperation, protection of whistle blowers, government integrity and public-private partnerships in fighting corruption. It will co-organise with the French Presidency and the support of the UN Office on Drugs and Crime a G20 conference in April 27-28 on “Joining forces against corruption: G20 business and government.”
For further information on the OECD’s anti-corruption work, visit www.oecd.org/corruption or contact the OECD Media Division (tel: + 33 1 4524 9700; news.contact@oecd.org).
About the OECD (from the Website of the Organisation)
The mission of the Organisation for Economic Co-operation and Development (OECD) is to promote policies that will improve the economic and social well-being of people around the world.
The OECD provides a forum in which governments can work together to share experiences and seek solutions to common problems. We work with governments to understand what drives economic, social and environmental change. We measure productivity and global flows of trade and investment. We analyse and compare data to predict future trends. We set international standards on all sorts of things, from the safety of chemicals and nuclear power plants to the quality of cucumbers.
We look, too, at issues that directly affect the lives of ordinary people, like how much they pay in taxes and social security, and how much leisure time they can take. We compare how different countries’ school systems are readying their young people for modern life, and how different countries’ pension systems will look after their citizens in old age.
Drawing on facts and real-life experience, we recommend policies designed to make the lives of ordinary people better. We work with business, through the Business and Industry Advisory Committee to the OECD, and with labour, through the Trade Union Advisory Committee. We have active contacts as well with other civil society organisations. The common thread of our work is a shared commitment to market economies backed by democratic institutions and focused on the wellbeing of all citizens. Along the way, we also set out to make life harder for the terrorists, tax dodgers, crooked businessmen and others whose actions undermine a fair and open society.
OECD at 50
Now, as the OECD turns 50, we are focusing on helping governments in our member countries and elsewhere in four main areas:
•First and foremost, governments need to restore confidence in markets and the institutions and companies that make them function. That will require improved regulation and more effective governance at all levels of political and business life.
•Secondly, governments must re-establish healthy public finances as a basis for future sustainable economic growth.
•In parallel, we are looking for ways to foster and support new sources of growth through innovation, environmentally friendly ‘green growth’ strategies and the development of emerging economies.
•Finally, to underpin innovation and growth, we need to ensure that people of all ages can develop the skills to work productively and satisfyingly in the jobs of tomorrow.
The OECD’s core values
•Objective: Our analyses and recommendations are independent and evidence-based.
•Open: We encourage debate and a shared understanding of critical global issues.
•Bold: We dare to challenge conventional wisdom starting with our own.
•Pioneering: We identify and address emerging and long term challenges.
•Ethical: Our credibility is built on trust, integrity and transparency.

Milan prepares to welcome the world’s cosmetic industry in March 2011

The Italian cosmetics and toiletries industry is booming. Worth a reported €9.1 billion it is the third biggest in Europe, behind only France (€12.8 billion) and Germany (€10.5 billion) . And with Milan’s reputation as the business fashion capital of the continent, it’s not surprising that after seven years away, the city has been chosen to host the next instalment of in-cosmetics, the leading personal care ingredients exhibition, next year.
Promising to be as exciting as last year’s record-breaking event in Paris, the 2011 show will take place on 29 – 31 March at the Fiera Rho exhibition centre in the heart of the city. Already the largest ever show in terms of floor space, the exhibition will play host to more than 500 world-class suppliers of new and innovative cosmetic ingredients and services, as well as leading testing laboratories, software providers, industry associations and publishing houses.
Highlighting the importance of the event, all stand space for 2011 was booked on-site at last year’s event, however, the organisers have expanded the area to meet the demands of eager exhibitors, signalling a recovered and revived outlook for the cosmetics industry following last year’s recession.
Industry heavyweights such as DSM, Croda, Dow Chemical and Rhodia will naturally have a presence alongside smaller first-time exhibitors from China, Italy, India and South Korea. Key Italian distributors, such as Faravelli Group, L.F. Castelli and Variati will also be making the most of the exhibition taking place on home soil.
in-cosmetics Exhibition Director Lucy Gillam, commented: “Last year’s show was the biggest event ever, so we certainly set the bar very high, but we’re extremely confident that we will match if not exceed expectations for the Milan show. Our exhibitors are, as always, of the highest quality and the educational programme is certainly shaping up well. We have a really compelling line-up of speakers already confirmed to present on some of the hottest topics, which will no doubt provoke some lively debate amongst visitors.”
Dubbed a three-day ‘training centre’ for the industry, the show’s educational programme will offer a wide range of presentations, workshops and features to enhance visitors’ commercial, scientific and technical knowledge. Regulatory, Scientific and Innovation Seminars will take place alongside Formulation Workshops and Marketing Trends Presentations whilst the ever-popular in-focus and the Innovation Zone will once again be key features on the exhibition floor.
More than just an exhibition
A programme of Regulatory Seminars will provide delegates with thoughtful, educational insights into the movement of legislation including the current impact of future regulatory amendments in Europe and China. Dr. Annelie Struessman, Technical Director of CONUSBAT and experts from Beiersdorf and Henkel will lead the first session – Safety Assessment for Cosmetics in Europe - taking place on 29 March from 09h30 to 13h30. The seminar will outline the challenges and legal requirements for safety assessment and provide practical guidelines for the design, preparation and maintenance of Product Information Files (PIF) and Cosmetic Product Safety Reports (CPSRs).
China is also a key issue on the regulatory agenda of cosmetics companies today. Last summer, the SFDA published several guidelines and measures in a move to reorganise the supervision of cosmetic products in the country. Dr. Alain Khaiat, President of Seers Consulting and Vice-President of the ASEAN Cosmetic Association, and a panel of key industry experts, will aim to shed some light on this new legislative framework during the Chinese Cosmetic Regulations seminar on 29 March from 14h30 to18h00.
There will be a series of Scientific Seminars at this year’s show delving into two of the industry’s most topical issues; Skin ageing – from functional impairment to cosmetic solutions and nanotechnologies and biotechnologies in cosmetics. Organised by CEC Editore and HPC Magazine respectively, the seminars will gather together a range of international specialists keen to share their expertise and knowledge with delegates in the above areas.
On 30 March 2011 at 09h30 – 13h30 Skin ageing – from functional impairment to cosmetic solutions will look at the latest research in key cellular and biochemical changes associated with skin ageing. The most recent methods to measure and quantify ageing skin and the effects of anti-ageing treatments will also be examined, as will the issue of oxidative stress and its testing by molecular probes. Other areas set to be covered include optimal dermal delivery for anti-ageing actives and the latest innovation in actives and formulation.
Among those presenting will be Luigi Rigano from Studio Rigano, Anthony Rawlings from AVR Consulting, Prof. Enzo Berardesca from the San Gallicano Dermatological Institute in Italy, Prof. Dr. Johann Wiechers from JW Solutions and Stefano Manfredini from the Dipartimento di Scienze Farmaceutiche at the University of Ferrara, Italy.
Also on 30 March 2011, between 14h00 – 18h00, Nanotechnologies and biotechnologies in cosmetics will delve into the practical
At the next In Cosmetics Fair in Milan join our
Scientific Seminar
Nanotechnology and Biotechnology in Cosmetics
Practical applications - regulatory issues and safety - public response and industry.
March 30th 201113:00
Fiera di Milano (Rho),
In Cosmetics fair
http://hpc-today.teknoscienze.com/lp/InCosmeticsSeminar/index.html
applications and opportunities as well as the safety of cosmetic nano-formulations. Consumer perception and industry response to the techniques will be examined along with the regulatory framework in Europe. Finally, the seminar will take a look at whether biotechnology represents an alternative to animal model testing.
Experts confirmed to present include Dr. Gerhard J Nohynek, Scientific Head of the Worldwide Safety Department at L’Oréal, Dr. Joachim Kreysa, Unit Head of ECVAM (European Centre for the Validation of Alternative Methods) European Commission – DG Joint Research Centre, Dr Steffi Friedrichs, Director General at the Nanotechnology Industries Association, Dr. Florian Schellauf, Issue Manager Technical & Regulatory Affairs for COLIPA and Dr. Fred Zuelli Researcher at Mibelle A.G. Biochemistry.
The Formulation Workshops will provide lively, interactive and controversial insights into the challenges and issues high up on the formulators’ radar. Prof. Dr. Johann Wiechers from JW Solutions will present on From Active Ingredient to Active Formulation in 5 Simple Steps [29 March, 14h00 – 18h00]. Delegates attending the workshop will be given guidance on how to select the best actives for optimum skin delivery, identify the size of the delivery gap from the required minimum effective concentration and select the most appropriate skin delivery system. Attendees will also learn how to design the right formulation to deliver the actives and perform a clinical trial to assess the product’s efficacy.
Judi Beerling from Organic Monitor will then look at Emulsifiers & Surfactants: The Natural Options [31 March 09h30 – 13h00]. The new workshop will act as a practical guide for companies looking to formulate natural and organic personal care products with alternatives to synthetic emulsifiers and surfactants. With a growing number of companies trying to avoid SLS / SLES and related synthetic substances, there is growing interest in natural & organic alternatives. However, what options are available? What are the associated technical & formulation issues? What materials are cost-effective, and what are the related safety issues?
The in-focus feature, sponsored by Brazilian natural organic ingredients supplier Beraca, attracts over two-thirds of in-cosmetics visitors each year. With “sustainable beauty” as the main theme, the 2011 feature will explore the challenges and key drivers of success in the development of sustainable cosmetics, from new product concepts to sourcing, formulation, industrial processes and packaging. Showcasing a range of innovative eco-designed product prototypes, the feature will seek to define the core principles of sustainable development in the beauty industry.
As ever, this year’s Innovation Zone, sponsored by ISP, will be full to bursting with innovation and inspiration, with the key theme in the end-product section being anti-ageing. At in-cosmetics 2011, visitors will be able to discover the latest finished products on the market from Europe, Asia, USA and Latin America, sourced by Mintel’s team of beauty trend spotters.
In addition, the feature will also house some of the latest ingredient launches from exhibitors, enabling visitors to quickly identify the very latest launches and provide ideas for their next NPD or marketing campaign.
A wealth of facts and figures, case studies and advice will be presented at the highly popular Marketing Trends Presentations at the show this year. Conducted by renowned international market research companies, brands and consultancies, the sessions are aimed at sparking off new marketing ideas for companies keen to set themselves apart from the competition.
Sustainability, green chemistry and ethical sourcing will feature prominently in the programme, with two round-tables and a presentation from Organic Monitor already confirmed. Kline and Euromonitor International will reveal the latest ingredients and beauty trends whilst the founders of niche brands Bulldog and Davina Peace will share their secrets for success in live interviews. How cosmetics companies can draw inspiration from other industries such as professional hair care and cosmetic surgery as well as changes in online and offline shopping behaviour will also be among the subjects discussed.
Innovation Seminars provide an opportunity for suppliers to highlight the very latest ingredients and formulation techniques they are currently pioneering. Traditionally extremely popular with visitors, the seminars last 30 minutes and provide a platform for companies to share their information and knowledge with a highly captive audience. Visitors can choose from 44 sessions covering a wide variety of topics including the latest developments in anti-ageing treatments, nature based emulsifiers and ethically sourced ingredients.
A new online community tool - CONNECT - will also be introduced for the Milan show. It provides exhibitors and pre-registered visitors with a diary, a detailed search facility and a fully integrated email system to network and arrange meetings. Users can also add a personal profile and save seminars, products or any other website content of interest, to their favourites. This will prove to be an invaluable tool for visitors and exhibitors at the show.
World-class exhibitors
Among the 500-plus exhibitors set to showcase their latest innovations and scientific developments to the visitors is Arch Personal Care Products [stand F50]. The company will be highlighting its patent-pending Lotus Zymbiozome® Fermentum (Assigned INCI Name: Water (and) Lotus japonicus Symbiosome Extract), an innovative ingredient which, when formulated into skin care products, demonstrates unique effects in controlling skin colour and tone.
In addition, the company will be showcasing NAB® Rhodiola Extract (Assigned INCI Name: Water (and) Pentylene Glycol and Rhodiola Rosea Root Extract), an exciting, innovative new ingredient for skin care products offering ‘adaptogenic thermal stress protection’. Rhodiola Rosea is a robust plant native to the arctic regions of Tibet and Eastern Siberia. The plant contains protective properties, giving it the ability to survive, adapt and even thrive in such conditions. NAB® Rhodiola Extract assists the skin in adapting and reducing the stress incurred when it is exposed to varying temperature fluctuations.
Also showcasing a number of brand new product launches will be BASF [stand L40]. The company’s product range includes polymers, UV filters, effect pigments, actives, hair colorants, stabilizers, and surfactants. At in-cosmetics 2011, BASF will be presenting Tinosorb S Aqua, a new UV filter for the water phase, with the same high-tech broad spectrum technology as Tinosorb S. In addition, the company will be highlighting its MultiReflections Soft Sparkle, Pigments, provide elegant colour travel and sophisticated soft sparkle effects.
Burgundy Botanical Extracts’ [stand F74] latest launch, Botany Care, will be on show at in-cosmetics 2011. The range offers the high quality botanical extract (Botany) and purified extracts (BotanySelect): Aloe Vera, Centella, Hibiscus, Licorice, Harpagophytum p., Chamomilla, enriched organic acids from flowers or fruits, Nettle and Echinacea with studies of efficiency. All the ingredients are supported by accurate scientific research and documentation, and are designed to bring visible benefits.
On stand L30, Cognis will be highlighting its Lamesoft ®Care products. Lamesoft Care is a high performance wax dispersion that is suited for surfactant based skin and hair care applications. Its micronised lipid system offers excellent skin and hair conditioning properties. Particularly strong effects are achieved in combination with cationic polymers. Lamesoft® Care fits into marketing concepts where a white, fine marbleized appearance is desired. Due to its ether based lipids Lamesoft® Care can be used in a wide pH-range between 4-11 and therefore in all kinds of body rinse off applications.
With the Dermosoft® range, Dr. Straetmans [stand L79] is a pioneer in using multifunctional additives with high performance antimicrobial properties to formulate mild and safe cosmetics. With decades of experience in preservation of all kinds of products, a tailor made solution is available for every product concept. Dr. Straetmans accompanies customers at each stage of product development, from concept through evaluation to finished product. Challenge tests are offered to ensure successful formulation projects with customers. The company’s Dermofeel® range will also be on show on the stand.
Evonik [stand M40] will be highlighting its comprehensive range of products which conditioners and thickeners for hair care products, emulsifiers for creams and lotions, secondary surfactants, emollients and active ingredients. Amongst those on show will be the SK-influx range of skin identical lipid concentrates and Skinmimics,a unique blend of new long chain Ceramides and newly identified Sphingokines®, which are ideal for mature skin as they provide protection, regeneration and prevention.
Fenchem Biotek [stand A60] is a science-based company, which specialises in developing and manufacturing a wide range of active ingredients for cosmetic and personal care products. The company has recently launched a series of innovative products, including HyaMax® Sodium Hyaluronate, Tocovet® Tocopherols, CellMotive™ Coenzyme Q10 and Vitamin C series. Fenchem has also invested in botanical extracts, such as G-Tea™ Green tea Extract, Grapurit ™ Grape Seed Extract, Ginktone™ and Ginkgo Biloba Extract.
Induchem AG’s [stand E56] business is based on carrier systems and active ingredients. Its product portfolio consists mainly of exfoliants, sun care products and additives. Amongst the ranges on show will be Uniprotect PT-3, a bioactive complex for the protection of skin proteins, Unirepair T-43, a bioactive complex to counteract environmental skin damage and Unisooth EG-28, a synergistic complex to inhibit skin irritation.
KCI [stand P34] specialises in raw materials for personal care products such as shampoo, conditioner, body wash, sunscreen cream, face moisturiser and nail polish. At in-cosmetics 2011 the company will be highlighting its Cationic Surfactants, Amine Amide series, Polyquat and Guarquat series and its high qualified resin for nail lacquer.
Lubrizol [stand K40], with its Noveon Consumer Specialties Division, is a leading manufacturer of advanced specialty chemicals for personal care products. in-cosmetics 2011 will see the company highlight its Carbopol range of acrylic polymers, urethanes, silicones, high-quality derivatives, lanoline and lanoline derivatives, formulation additives such as nonionic emulsifiers, alcohol ethoxylates and isopropyl esters.
Zahra Rosewater Company [stand C78] specialises in the production of 100% pure and hydro-distilled essential oils and hydrolytes that are widely used for the manufacture of cosmetics, fragrances and pharmaceuticals. The company is a leading grower, distiller and exporter of organic Damask roses, focusing mainly on the production of high-quality rose products that bear the British Soil Association organic seal of approval. At in-cosmetics the company will be showcasing its Organic Rosewater and Organic Rose Oil.
Lucy Gillam, Exhibition Director concluded: “There’s certainly a real buzz surrounding the 2011 event. All the ‘ingredients’ are there for another record-breaking event, so we’ll be doing everything we can to ensure this is once again, a fantastic show for both exhibitors and visitors alike.”
in-cosmetics attracts leading ingredient and raw material suppliers enabling visitors to discover new, innovative products and services whilst boosting their business, scientific and technical knowledge. Attendees will benefit from all the major players being under one roof and meeting with experts whilst discussing the next big trends in the growing personal care market.
For further details about in-cosmetics, visit www.in-cosmetics.com. To get the latest news on personal care ingredients, follow in-cosmetics on Twitter at www.twitter.com/incosmetics or to join the debate with fellow industry experts, go to www.in-cosmetics.com/linkedin
For all travel information, visit www.in-cosmetics.com/travel

Inhaling ‘Red Mud Disaster’ dust may not be as harmful to health as feared

Scientists in Hungary are reporting that the potential health effects of last October’s Red Mud Disaster, one of the worst environmental accidents in Europe, may be less dangerous than previously feared. Their study, reported in ACS’s journal Environmental Science &Technology, concludes that the dust from the mud may be no more harmful than particles of ordinary urban air pollution.
Mihály Pósfai and colleagues point out that a burst dam at a factory that processes aluminum ore last October inundated areas near Ajka in northern Hungary with more than 700,000 cubic yards of caustic red mud. Ten people died and dozens were injured. Since the mud contained potentially toxic substances, concern arose about the health effects of inhaling dust formed when the mud dried and was swept into the air by wind.
They studied the chemical and physical properties of the red mud particles and dust and concluded that particles of red mud dust were too large to be inhaled deeply into lungs, where they could cause the most damage. Although the resuspension potential of red mud dust is large, inhalation likely would cause irritation and coughing, but would not increase the risk of other more serious health problems, the report suggested.
“The red mud accident in Ajka (Hungary): Characterization and potential health effects of fugitive dust”
Environmental Science & Technology

Lavender Oil Has Potent Antifungal Effect

Lavender oil could be used to combat the increasing incidence of antifungal-resistant infections, according to a study published in the Journal of Medical Microbiology. The essential oil shows a potent antifungal effect against strains of fungi responsible for common skin and nail infections.
Scientists from the University of Coimbra in Portugal distilled lavender oil from the Lavandula viridis L'Hér shrub that grows in southern Portugal. The oil was tested against a range of pathogenic fungi and was found to be lethal to a range of skin-pathogenic strains, known as dermatophytes, as well as various species of Candida.
Dermatophytes cause infections of the skin, hair and nails as they use the keratin within these tissues to obtain nutrients. They are responsible for conditions such as Athletes' foot, ringworm and can also lead to scalp and nail infections. Candida species coexist with most healthy individuals without causing problems but may cause mucocutaneous candidosis - or thrush - in some people. In immunocompromised patients, Candida species are able to cause serious infection if the fungal cells escape into the blood stream.
Currently, there are relatively few types of antifungal drugs to treat infections and those that are available often have side effects. Professor Lígia Salgueiro and Professor Eugénia Pinto who led this study explained why novel fungicides are urgently needed. "In the last few years there has been an increase in the incidence of fungal diseases, particularly among immunocompromised patients," they said. "Unfortunately there is also increasing resistance to antifungal drugs. Research by our group and others has shown that essential oils may be cheap, efficient alternatives that have minimal side effects."
Essential oils distilled from the Lavandula genus of lavender plants are already used widely, particularly in the food, perfume and cosmetic industries. Studies of the biological activities of these oils suggest Lavandula oils have sedative and antispasmodic properties as well being potent antimicrobials and antioxidants.
This group has demonstrated that these oils work by destroying fungal cells by damaging the cell membrane. They believe that further research into the mechanisms by which this essential oil works could have significant clinical benefits. "Lavandula oil shows wide-spectrum antifungal activity and is highly potent. This is a good starting point for developing this oil for clinical use to manage fungal infections. What is now required is clinical trials to evaluate how our in vitro work translates in vivo," said Professor Salgueiro
Chemical composition and antifungal activity of the essential oils of Lavandula viridis L'Hér
J Med Microbiol

PCHi Conference Programme Ready for Action Organizers Bring New Conference Themes Closer to Visitors

Reed Sinopharm Exhibitions (RSE) today announces the most up-to-date PCHi conference programme, featuring two contemporary themes - “Earth-Friendly Formulations” and “The Macho Side of Personal Care” – that are relevant to every company today. The Personal Care & Homecare Ingredients exhibition and conference will be held from 22 - 24 February 2011 at the Shenzhen Convention and Exhibition Centre.
PCHi’s conference programme is an integral part of the annual event. The 2011 conference features a total of five themes: Technology, Formulators’ Workshop, Regulatory Summit, Marketing Trends, and New Technology Session & New Technology Feature Areas. In keeping with the industry’s needs, the Technology conference comprises three sub-themes: New Technology & Innovations, Earth-Friendly Formulations, and The Macho Side of Personal Care.
The Macho Side of Personal Care
These days, men have become a major target consumer that many cosmetics companies aim to reach. Many men are putting greater emphasis on the way they look, feel, and smell. This conference topic covers the key differences in formulations and technologies behind the manufacturing of men’s cosmetics.
Earth-Friendly Formulations
As a chemical industry, the personal care and homecare sector sees increasing pressure from governments to care for the environment. This conference topic will explore manufacturing techniques, formulae and technologies, and even packaging materials for companies to develop truly Green products that will be well-accepted by earth- conscious consumers.
The Formulators’ Workshop will feature live demonstrations and a hands-on session for formulators and laboratory researchers to learn from experts. At the Regulatory Summit, participants will be informed of the latest regulations governing the industry in China, and regulatory risk control. Marketing Trends will give companies insight into how to better sell their products. Exhibiting companies with the newest and most innovative formulations will have their products displayed at the New Technology Feature Area, and the opportunity to speak at the New Technology Session.
Jason Li, Project Manager, PCHi, said, “Earth-Friendly Formulations and The Macho Side of Personal Care were introduced as new conference topics to help companies remain current. As the first trade show for the cosmetics industry every calendar year, we provide the right platform for our visitors and exhibitors to obtain the most current information to steer their companies in the right direction. We look forward to the making this edition of PCHi even more successful.”
PCHi 2011 is currently held from 22 to 24 February 2011 at Shenzhen Convention & Exhibition Centre. For more information, visit www.pchi-china.com/en.

EU Regulation follows fragrance industry’s voluntary global ban

The European Commission has just announced its decision to ban the fragrance material Musk xylene under the new European Chemicals Legislation REACH, bringing EU regulations in line with the global IFRA Standards.
The International Fragrance Association (IFRA) voluntarily banned Musk xylene through the IFRA Standards, part of the fragrance industry’s global self-regulatory program contained in the IFRA Code of Practice.
The material was banned because of its potential effects on the environment.
The IFRA Standards form the basis for the globally accepted and recognized risk management system for the safe use of fragrance ingredients and are part of the product risk management process, the IFRA Code of Practice. This is the self-regulating system of the industry, based on risk assessments carried out by an independent Expert Panel.
The Expert Panel is made up of renowned independent experts, from fields such as dermatology, toxicology, pathology or environmental sciences. Their role is to evaluate the data on a fragrance to see if it supports the current use level, to make sure that there is no risk for the consumer or the environment. In the cases where the safety assessment does not support the current use, the Panel instructs IFRA to issue a Standard either restricting or banning a material. This was the process that led to the creation of an IFRA Standard banning the use of Musk xylene as part of the IFRA 44th Amendment to the Code of Practice in June 2009. The Code of Practice is mandatory for all IFRA members and membership accounts for approximately 90% of the global volume of fragrance materials.
“I am pleased that one of the world’s most comprehensive regulatory regimes is in line with our own global safety program,” said Pierre Sivac, IFRA President. “We have always taken our responsibilities for safety very seriously and once again our self-regulatory approach has proved to be more up to date with current scientific knowledge, faster to implement and cheaper for industry and consumers. We shall continue to work to ensure the safe enjoyment of fragrances by implementing our Standards worldwide.”
http://www.ifraorg.org/

Multidrug resistant bacteria remain a public health issue in Europe

Brussels - On the occasion of the European Antibiotic Awareness Day, ECDC is releasing new European-wide surveillance data on antibiotic resistance from the European Antimicrobial Resistance Surveillance Network (EARS-Net). With annually up to 400,000 patients reported to suffer from infections resistant to multiple antibiotics, the data show that antibiotic resistance remains a public health problem across the European Union. In Klebsiella pneumoniae, a common cause of infection amongst hospital patients, an emerging trend is the proportion of resistance to powerful last-line antibiotics, such as carbapenems. Proportions of resistance range from less than 1% to more than 25%. Without effective last-line antibiotics, doctors face the dilemma of not having any treatment options left.
Speaking today at the launch event for European Antibiotic Awareness Day in the European Parliament, ECDC Director, Marc Sprenger, said:
“Antibiotic resistance remains a serious threat to patient safety, reducing options for treatment and increasing lengths of hospital stay, as well as patient morbidity and mortality. However the news is not all gloomy. European-wide surveillance data from EARS-Net – a network coordinated by ECDC – show that a significant number of countries have reported decreasing trends for MRSA for the second consecutive year. Notwithstanding, we are seeing increasing multi-drug resistance and the emergence of resistance to last-line antibiotics in European hospitals which we must take urgent action to address.”
The focus of this year’s European Antibiotic Awareness Day is promoting prudent antibiotic use in hospitals in order to turn the tide on antibiotic resistance. Whereas, up to 50% of antibiotic use in hospitals can be inappropriate. Prudent use means only using antibiotics when they are needed, with the correct dose, dosage intervals and duration of the course. Activities to promote prudent use of antibiotics are taking place in 36 different European countries, including all member states of the European Union. An EU-level launch event was organised today in the European Parliament to draw attention to the many national campaigns on prudent antibiotic use.
Marc Sprenger, ECDC Director, stressed: “ECDC has been involved in coordinating the European Antibiotic Awareness Day since 2008. We are very proud that 36 countries are joining efforts to mark this day. Campaigns to promote prudent antibiotic use across Europe are bringing some good results, as in the case of MRSA. We are also happy that this year the United States’ Get Smart About Antibiotics Week is being launched simultaneously during the week of 18 November in an effort to show global solidarity”.
About European Antibiotic Awareness Day
The European Antibiotic Awareness Day is a European health initiative which aims to provide a platform and support for national campaigns about prudent antibiotic use. Across Europe each year the European Antibiotic Awareness Day is marked by national campaigns on prudent antibiotic use during the week of 18 November. The focus of this year’s European Antibiotic Awareness Day is promoting prudent antibiotic use in hospitals. Prudent use means only using antibiotics when they are needed, with the correct dose, dosage intervals and duration of the course.
For more information, visit: http://antibiotic.ecdc.europa.eu

A review: Photodynamic therapy in the management of acne

Cairo (Egypt); Miami (USA) - Acne, one of the most common dermatological diseases, is characterized by inflammatory and non-inflammatory lesions that may progress to scars. Starting from pubertal age groups, it can affect adults in the age group 35–40 or more. The conventional therapies for treatment of acne are facing roadblocks because of the antibiotic resistance developing against Propionibacterium acnes. This has led to trying new therapies, of which photodynamic therapy (PDT) seems to be the one under intensive study. Promising results have been observed with PDT use in acne treatment, but it still has some more way to go to acquire the FDA approval for use in acne treatment. A review of the literature of use of PDT in treatment of acne was published (see the link below), providing a starting point for dermatologists seeking to treat their patients with acne safely and effectively with this new method.
http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/j.1473-2165.2010.00502.x/abstract

Tobacco and nicotine can be good!

London (Ontario – Canada) - No! This isn’t good news for smokers. Smoking is still one of the most unhealthy habits of mankind. Nevertheless, tobacco can be employed in a different way.
Tobacco, used on a small scale as a natural organic pesticide for hundreds of years, is getting new scientific attention as a potential mass-produced alternative to traditional commercial pesticides. That’s the topic of a report in ACS’ bi-weekly journal Industrial & Engineering Chemistry Research.
Cedric Briens and colleagues note that concerns about the health risks of tobacco have reduced demand and hurt tobacco farmers in some parts of the world. Scientists are looking for new uses for tobacco. One potential use is as a natural pesticide, due to tobacco’s content of toxic nicotine. For centuries, gardeners have used home-made mixtures of tobacco and water as a natural pesticide to kill insect pests. A “green” pesticide industry based on tobacco could provide additional income for farmers, and as well as a new eco-friendly pest-control agent, the scientists say.
They describe a promising way to convert tobacco leaves into pesticides with pyrolysis. That process involves heating tobacco leaves to about 900 degrees Fahrenheit in a vacuum, to produce an unrefined substance called bio-oil. The scientists tested tobacco bio-oil against a wide variety of insect pests, including 11 different fungi, four bacteria, and the Colorado potato beetle, a major agricultural pest that is increasingly resistant to current insecticides. The oil killed all of the beetles and blocked the growth of two types of bacteria and one fungus. Even after removal of the nicotine, the oil remained a very effective pesticide. Its ability of the oil to block some but not all of the microorganisms suggests that tobacco bio-oil may have additional value as a more selective pesticide than those currently in use, the report indicates.
“Experimental Investigations into the Insecticidal, Fungicidal, and Bactericidal Properties of Pyrolysis Bio-oil from Tobacco Leaves Using a Fluidized Bed Pilot Plant”
Industrial & Engineering Chemistry Research
All rights reserved 2012 Teknoscienze Srl