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What are the regulatory challenges regarding microbiome in cosmetics?

Due to the possible cosmetic benefit of microbiota to keep skin in good health, microbiome-related cosmetic products are a growing trend. As per the novelty of the concept dedicated reflection was needed for cosmetics and International Cooperation on Cosmetic Regulation (ICCR) was a real opportunity to harmonize related terms and definition. Last meeting in June 2022 have led to the publication of specific definitions for cosmetics.
Some challenges remain: for R&D and analytic a key question is the control of the stability and distinction between intentionally and unintentionally added microorganism. Communication towards consumers should be also clearer to explain the mode of action of these products.

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The first COSMOS compliant, wax-based pearlizer with strong hair care performance benefits

The demand for certified natural cosmetic and care products is increasingly growing. At the same time, consumers expect that personal care products are achieving better effects paired with attractive sensory properties. In 2022, a new wax-based pearlizer was launched that offers a combination of both requirements: based on naturally derived ingredients, it expands the spectrum of eco-friendly beauty products while delivering an extraordinary performance compared to formulations containing conventional ethylene glycol distearate-based pearlizers. For cosmetic manufacturers, the new pearlizer offers another opportunity to enlarge their product spectrum for natural cosmetics – a market that is expected to grow globally at a speedy rate (1, a).

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Santalum Album: efficacy studies in an anti-hair loss protocol

Heavy hair loss and reduced hair density represent for all humans problematic and impacting conditions on daily life. Causes are to be found in genetics factors, hormone imbalance, stress and exogenous factors causing inflammation. The use of natural Santalum album (sandalwood) oil for fighting hair loss is poorly supported by scientific literature.
The aim of our study is to investigate the anti-hair loss property of sandalwood oil through an in vivo test. The pure sandalwood oil was introduced into a hydro-alcoholic lotion to be daily applied to the scalp for three months, at two different concentrations (0.1 and 0.5% w/w) on volunteers (both gender) suffering from androgenic alopecia. The evaluation and quantification of results was performed by the photo-trichogram method.
The efficacy of the oil is proven by statistically significant improvements in percentage of anagen hair (increase) and percentage of telogen hair (decrease) with lotion at 0.5% of Sandalwood Oil.
Despite the remarkable cost due to its unique preciousness, essential oil of Santalum album seems a very promising material for reestablishing the scalp equilibrium.

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Leveraging synergy between Guar and Xanthan gums – A modern formulation tool

Rheological properties play an important role in beauty and personal care formulations. Natural polymers have long been used as rheology, sensory, and texture modifiers. Guar gum is a natural polymer extracted from the endosperm of the Guar bean. It is commonly used as a rheology modifier in the food industry. In this article, we discuss its rheological behaviour and application as a thickener in different types of cosmetic formulations. We also investigate how the synergistic combination of Guar gum and Xanthan gum results in enhanced viscosity. The wide pH range and cationic components compatibility, together with its unique sensory profile, make the underused guar gum a very promising ingredient for the thickening of various beauty and personal-care products.

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Protective effects of skin barrier integrity against emotional stress, by an enriched Oat β-Glucan complex derived from Avena sativa L.

The skin stress response is the activation of the endocrine, neurologic, and immune systems triggering a cascade of impacts. Cortisol is a stress hormone and prolonged exposure to elevated levels causes an increase in reactive oxygen species. Oat β-glucans have been reported to have beneficial effects on skin health.
This work presents evidence of the protective effects of an enriched Oat β-glucan complex on the skin barrier integrity against emotional stress and on the effectiveness of delaying the first signs of skin-ageing. Clinical studies show that this complex protects against stress-related skin damage. Due to its high anti-oxidation and stress-response upregulation in genes, stratum corneum integrity is maintained, stress-induced skin thinning is reduced, and skin smoothness is improved.

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A SENSORIAL BEAUTY EXPERIENCE THROUGH SENSES AND SUSTAINABILITY

Emollients are one of the most used ingredients to remodel and revolutionize texture characteristics and the market is constantly searching for more groundbreaking opportunities. Looking ahead, modern trends of ethereal and clean beauty are requiring formulas in line with the expectations of eco-conscious consumers.

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