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Sustainability for cosmetic ingredients

The new demands from ‘green’ consumers are pushing cosmetic companies to get more sustainable, by combining the search for the effectiveness of their products with the use of ingredients and technologies that respect environmental and social sustainability systems. From the production of natural ingredients from renewable sources to the development of new products derived from waste or the choice of biodegradable or recyclable packaging, the cosmetics industry is demonstrating an increasing concern for the environment and is keeping pace by adapting ingredients, materials, practices and production systems.
This article focuses specifically on the sustainability of cosmetic raw materials along the supply chain. The piece explores the most sustainable sourcing and processing methods that can reduce the consumption of resources, energy and polluting chemical waste, without forgetting the importance of supporting local communities. Moreover, the article highlights the benefits of certifications, which allows greater transparency and assurance towards consumer needs. The NATRUE certification supports sustainability and ensures the quality of the natural and organic cosmetics sector, by offering users a more informed and responsible choice.

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The sunscreen: a complex evaluation

Evaluating the performance of sun care is a complex task considering in-silico, in-vitro, in-vivo or hybrid methods. The criteria that have the most influence on the performance of these products include the composition, repartition, photostability, absorbance, and distribution of inorganic and organic filters, as well as the galenic properties of the product (spray, compact powder, oil, cream, etc.). The performance is also impacted by other factors. Harmonizing test methods between and within laboratories ensures the highest quality of sun care. Unifying global reference methods and labelling rules will also ensure that human health (e.g., nano, and endocrine disruptors) and the environment (ecotoxicity testing, coral protection) are respected.

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The biofilm lifestyle of the human skin microbiota

The human skin is the first line of defense against environmental attacks and the invasion of pathogens. The skin is an ecosystem composed of diverse commensal microorganisms, most of which are harmless or beneficial to the host. Microbial colonization is driven by the ecology of the skin surface, topographical location, endogenous host factors, and external environmental agents. Biofilm is the dominant lifestyle of the skin microbiota, representing a critical element in skin health and diseases. The close relationship between the host and microbial biofilms has tremendous implications for major dermatological conditions, making the skin microbiota an attractive target for treating skin disorders. This review summarizes the connection between the skin microbiota, biofilms, and skin diseases in dermatological disorders.

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A holistic natural plant extract to minimize the appearance of stretchmarks on the body and wrinkles on the face

During and since the Covid-19 pandemic period, the level of sedentary lifestyle has reached records. The global population tends to gain weight, rapidly and the probability to get stretchmarks therefore increased. These modifications on the body may cause a decrease of self-esteem. Therefore, the need to have an efficient solution against stretchmarks is real. In parallel, the loss of self-esteem may impact the perception of aging in general, and of the skin in particular, with an increase in wrinkles. The need for highly efficient anti-wrinkle effects is well and truly present.
We tested a plant extract based on a poppy seed extract, RP-SE notably in two in-vivo studies, whose attractive outcomes are presented in this publication. In the first one, the ability to minimize the visibility of stretchmarks was investigated. In the second one, the focus was on anti-aging, and particularly on wrinkles around crow’s feet, and the thickness of the papillary dermis.

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HAIR CARE INSIGHTS

Among the very latest scientific trends in hair care we can recognize a high emphasis on 1) inclusivity and individualism, and 2) technological innovations based on nanotechnology. On one side there is a push towards the personalization of hair care also for niches of individuals; on the other there is an attempt to optimize the hair care products by resorting to the nanotechnological innovations. This literature review is therefore organised into two macro-areas:

  1. A focus on inclusive hair care, in particular its declination to two niches: a) Transgender individuals, who undergo to hair changes during hormonal therapy. The first abstract discusses in general the hair treatment options available for transgender women, while the second one specifically investigates galeatomy (a surgical incision into the galea) for scalp advancement. b) Black individuals, with hair proneness to dryness and fragility. The study presented provides a list of hair products and ingredients used by African Americans and should assist dermatologists in delivering culturally competent care.
  2. A focus on nanotechnological applications for the development of new and innovative hair/scalp care products. The first two studies review nanotechnology-enabled formulations and highlight their advantages over traditional ones. For instance, organic and inorganic nanocarriers for optimal nanodelivery are presented, with a focus in the second abstract on the hair product performance improvement of active compounds such as minoxidil, finasteride and permethrin. Finally, the last abstract describes the combination of plant oils (coconut, olive and Abyssinian oils) and nanotechnology to develop effective nanoemulsions in hair treatment.
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Cannabigerol application in skincare: past, present, and future

Cannabinoids have emerged as promising bioactive ingredients in several attractive commercial applications. While trans-Δ9-tetrahydrocannabinol (Δ9-THC) and cannabidiol (CBD) are the most studied cannabinoids, there are over 100 other minor cannabinoids (considered “minor” due to their low concentration in cannabis plants). Yeast-based biomanufacturing of one such rare cannabinoid, cannabigerol (CBG), has emerged as an alternative production process enabling access to commercial-scale production of this compound making it a viable candidate for personal care products. Research has demonstrated CBG has distinct pharmacology compared to other cannabinoids such as CBD, making it an attractive ingredient for further study and commercial efforts. Here, we report transcriptomic analysis on skin cells treated with CBG to determine its effect the genomes compared to CBD. We find that CBG activates skin response to microbial attacks and downregulates skin pigmentation pathways, suggesting that it may provide benefits in anti-microbial and anti-hyperpigmentation personal care products.

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