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Skincare compendium commentary article

In this compendium, I will take the opportunity to revisit articles published in 2022 in HPC today. Eight articles, from very diverse topics, were selected according to their novelty or relevancy and I will expand on each of them with my own views.

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The 6th IPCE conference 2023: SICC promoter of a new cosmetic “renaissance”

Italian, Japanese, American and French cosmetologists will meet from 7 to 8 June 2023 in Italy to experience two days of scientific confrontation and meeting, at last in the presence, of eminent personalities of international cosmetology.
IPCE (Intercontinental Personal Care Excellence Conference) is an experienced meeting formula that through lectures, discussions, and a wide range of posters, guarantees indispensable scientific updates in a friendly networking atmosphere, this year in Sardinia, Villasimius (CA).
Why this meeting is an opportunity for the comestic community today?
Here remarks from members of the IPCE international scientific committee given to HPC Today.

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The power of myths

The realm of surfactants is pervaded by myths, and the formulators have a pivotal position in creating these myths. The ethylene oxide-free and sulphate-free campaign are favorite subjects since a few years, yet so far they have not produced innovative, step-changing solutions. This is not the end of the road if the surfactants producers are capable of recognizing true knowledge and vision over superficial short-term approaches.

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Microplastics bans and its impact on the use of fragrance encapsulation

Fragrance is a critical component of consumer and commercial products, enhancing the customer’s overall experience and, sometimes even, providing psychological benefits. Encapsulated fragrance allows formulators to create long-lasting scents while using less fragrance material. However, encapsulated fragrances will be impacted as government initiatives address microplastics in the environment. This article will discuss how fragrance manufacturers will need to navigate perceptions about toxicity and biodegradability in order to remain commercially viable and new technologies to address microplastic concerns.

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Inspiration in the ecology principles for skin and hair care

The principles of ecology indicate that when we evaluate an ecosystem (for example, a forest), we need to keep in mind not only each separate element, but all of them as a whole (plants, soil, weather conditions, the organisms living there, etc.). Everything is interconnected, each element impacts the others, and all the system must be considered. In skin and hair care, we propose the following approach: to take care of all components of both systems to treat them.

Biotechnology allows us to apply these principles of ecology in a holistic and integrative way in skin and hair care. Using plant biotechnology, we can significantly reduce the use of water, minimize the impact in natural resources, and contribute to a more sustainable model, much more respectful with the environment. As both the skin and the hair are two ecosystems exposed to many endogenous and exogenous factors (pollution, UV radiation, lifestyle, nutrition, stress, etc.), the principles of ecology can be applied using plant biotechnology. Two active ingredients exemplify this approach: one targets the skin ecosystem and the other one addresses the hair ecosystem.

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Evaluation melting points of esters

There is a growing interest in the personal care market to (1) replace synthetic oils like mineral oil and silicone fluids and (2) to modify skin aesthetics using naturally derived esters as emollients. Esters and polyesters are finding increasing usage in this application. Blends of different esters and polyesters also provide what have been referred to as cascade ester combinations. Liquid esters that are branched and provide a dry feel with minimal cushion in formulations, commonly are derived from synthetic sources. This article will review some ester structures that effect melting point, a key easily measured property that relates to both cushion and play time. The ability to modify melting point, polarity, and alkyl chain length will allow the formulator to improve their formulations. This article is one in a series of articles that will show the different properties of esters and polyesters when properly selected. This is the first in the series and will look at melting point of many simple esters. A subsequent article will cover polyesters and blends of polyesters and simple esters used to optimize performance.

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