Issue: Vol. 18

Santalum Album: efficacy studies in an anti-hair loss protocol

7 March 2023 No Comments

Heavy hair loss and reduced hair density represent for all humans problematic and impacting conditions on daily life. Causes are to be found in genetics factors, hormone imbalance, stress and exogenous factors causing inflammation. The use of natural Santalum album (sandalwood) oil for fighting hair loss is poorly supported by scientific literature.
The aim of our study is to investigate the anti-hair loss property of sandalwood oil through an in vivo test. The pure sandalwood oil was introduced into a hydro-alcoholic lotion to be daily applied to the scalp for three months, at two different concentrations (0.1 and 0.5% w/w) on volunteers (both gender) suffering from androgenic alopecia. The evaluation and quantification of results was performed by the photo-trichogram method.
The efficacy of the oil is proven by statistically significant improvements in percentage of anagen hair (increase) and percentage of telogen hair (decrease) with lotion at 0.5% of Sandalwood Oil.
Despite the remarkable cost due to its unique preciousness, essential oil of Santalum album seems a very promising material for reestablishing the scalp equilibrium.

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Leveraging synergy between Guar and Xanthan gums – A modern formulation tool

7 March 2023 No Comments

Rheological properties play an important role in beauty and personal care formulations. Natural polymers have long been used as rheology, sensory, and texture modifiers. Guar gum is a natural polymer extracted from the endosperm of the Guar bean. It is commonly used as a rheology modifier in the food industry. In this article, we discuss its rheological behaviour and application as a thickener in different types of cosmetic formulations. We also investigate how the synergistic combination of Guar gum and Xanthan gum results in enhanced viscosity. The wide pH range and cationic components compatibility, together with its unique sensory profile, make the underused guar gum a very promising ingredient for the thickening of various beauty and personal-care products.

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Protective effects of skin barrier integrity against emotional stress, by an enriched Oat β-Glucan complex derived from Avena sativa L.

7 March 2023 No Comments

The skin stress response is the activation of the endocrine, neurologic, and immune systems triggering a cascade of impacts. Cortisol is a stress hormone and prolonged exposure to elevated levels causes an increase in reactive oxygen species. Oat β-glucans have been reported to have beneficial effects on skin health.
This work presents evidence of the protective effects of an enriched Oat β-glucan complex on the skin barrier integrity against emotional stress and on the effectiveness of delaying the first signs of skin-ageing. Clinical studies show that this complex protects against stress-related skin damage. Due to its high anti-oxidation and stress-response upregulation in genes, stratum corneum integrity is maintained, stress-induced skin thinning is reduced, and skin smoothness is improved.

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A SENSORIAL BEAUTY EXPERIENCE THROUGH SENSES AND SUSTAINABILITY

7 March 2023 No Comments

Emollients are one of the most used ingredients to remodel and revolutionize texture characteristics and the market is constantly searching for more groundbreaking opportunities. Looking ahead, modern trends of ethereal and clean beauty are requiring formulas in line with the expectations of eco-conscious consumers.

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