Juliette Prou, Sales Director at SOPHIM
Abstract
The evolution of haircare formulations increasingly reflects concepts traditionally associated with skincare science. This convergence, often referred to as the skinification of haircare, is driven by growing expectations for measurable efficacy and functional performance. Within this framework, biomimetic emollients originally developed for skin applications are being investigated for their potential role in haircare formulations. The present article explores the scientific relevance of incorporating skincare-derived biomimetic lipids into rinse-off haircare systems. Particular focus is given to Phytosqualan Olive, an olive-derived squalane evaluated in conditioner formulations through a case study. Using ex vivo testing on standardised hair fibres, key performance parameters – including gloss, combability, and frizz control – are assessed to explore how surface condition, mechanical behaviour, and environmental response of the hair fibre with this active. The findings describe the measurable influence of this lipid on structural and optical properties of the hair fibre under controlled experimental conditions and provide insight into its potential contribution to surface-centred performance strategies in contemporary haircare formulation.
Introduction: Haircare at the Crossroads of Skincare Science
Haircare science has undergone a gradual but significant evolution over the past decade. Historically, formulation efforts were largely centred on cleansing efficiency, conditioning feel, and sensorial perception. While these attributes remain essential, the industry now places increasing emphasis on quantifiable performance parameters supported by instrumental analysis (1).
This transition mirrors developments long established in skincare research, where barrier function, hydration levels, and structural organisation are routinely evaluated through objective methodologies. In parallel, consumers and formulators increasingly expect haircare products to deliver measurable improvements in shine, manageability, and resistance to environmental stressors such as humidity.
Although hair and skin differ biologically, both are composite structures whose external appearance and tactile perception depend heavily on the integrity of their outermost layers. Consequently, ingredient classes and evaluation strategies traditionally associated with skincare are being examined for relevance in haircare applications.
Within this framework, lipid-based biomimetic ingredients represent a scientifically coherent category for investigation.
The Concept of Skinification Applied to Haircare
The concept of skinification in haircare refers to the adaptation of skincare-origin functional ingredients and development methodologies to hair systems. It does not imply structural equivalence between skin and hair; rather, it reflects the recognition that both are surface-dominated materials whose macroscopic properties are influenced by lipid organisation and interfacial phenomena.
Hair fibres are primarily composed of keratinised protein structures arranged in a hierarchical architecture. The outer cuticle layer, consisting of overlapping scale-like cells, plays a critical role in determining friction, light reflection, and interaction with moisture. Disruption of cuticle alignment -whether through mechanical stress, chemical treatments, or environmental exposure-leads to increased roughness, diminished gloss, and heightened susceptibility to frizz under humidity.
Surface lipids, whether endogenous or formulation-derived, contribute to lubrication and cohesion at the fibre interface. Ingredients capable of modulating this interfacial behaviour are therefore relevant targets in performance-driven haircare development (2), (3), (4).
Skinification, in this context, represents a formulation strategy grounded in physicochemical compatibility and surface-mediated mechanisms.
Biomimetic Lipids in Cosmetic Science
Biomimetic ingredients are designed to structurally resemble endogenous biological components, thereby promoting compatibility and functional affinity with target substrates (5).
Squalene is a naturally occurring triterpene present in human sebum and in various botanical sources. Its molecular structure includes six double bonds, rendering it susceptible to oxidative degradation. For cosmetic applications, hydrogenation yields squalane, a fully saturated and significantly more stable derivative.
Squalane maintains structural similarity to natural sebum lipids while offering enhanced oxidative stability and formulation robustness. In skincare systems, it has been widely investigated for its affinity with the stratum corneum surface, its contribution to reducing transepidermal water loss (TEWL), and its capacity to improve smoothness (6).
These characteristics provide a rational basis for exploring squalane within haircare formulations. Although hair fibres are not living tissue, their surface behaviour is influenced by lipid-mediated lubrication and cohesion mechanisms analogous to those observed at the skin interface.
Phytosqualan Olive, derived from olive sources, represents a vegetal form of squalane evaluated within this study for its potential role in rinse-off haircare systems.
Scientific Rationale for Hair Fibre Evaluation
Hair fibre performance is closely linked to the condition of the cuticle layer, which governs friction, light reflection, and moisture interaction. Damage or misalignment of the cuticle results in increased roughness, reduced shine, and heightened sensitivity to humidity.
To objectively assess these phenomena, hair science commonly relies on instrumental methods that measure:
- Optical properties (such as gloss),
- Mechanical behaviour (such as combing force),
- Structural response to environmental conditions (such as frizz formation under humidity).
These parameters provide quantifiable insights into hair quality and allow for controlled comparison between formulations.
Methodology: Ex Vivo Assessment of Hair Performance
To investigate the influence of an olive-derived biomimetic lipid in haircare formulations, ex vivo testing was conducted using standardised hair tresses.
Formulation Design
Rinse-off conditioner formulations were prepared incorporating Phytosqualan Olive at concentrations of 1% and 2%. A placebo formulation without the lipid served as a reference control. Surfactant systems, conditioning agents, and all other formulation parameters were kept constant to isolate the contribution of the tested ingredient.
Experimental Protocol
Standardised hair tresses underwent a controlled treatment sequence including shampoo cleansing, drying, conditioner application, rinsing, and subsequent drying under defined environmental conditions. Measurements were performed after stabilisation periods to ensure consistency and comparability across all samples.
Selected Evaluation Parameters
Three performance indicators were selected based on their relevance to hair surface condition and structural behaviour:
- Gloss, as an indicator of cuticle alignment and surface light reflection
- Combability, reflecting frictional behaviour and cuticle integrity
- Frizz control, representing fibre cohesion and response to high humidity exposure. For this specific test, two types of hair tresses were used: Type II and Type IV
Results and Observations
Gloss
Instrumental analysis demonstrated increased gloss values in formulations containing squalane relative to placebo. The effect exhibited concentration dependency, with 2% incorporation showing greater enhancement than 1%.
Increased gloss suggests improved surface regularity and more uniform cuticle alignment, facilitating coherent light reflection.
Combability
Combining energy measurements demonstrated reduced resistance for hair treated with squalane, in both wet and dry conditions. Lower combing forces indicate reduced friction between fibres and improved mechanical behaviour during detangling.
Frizz Control
Under elevated relative humidity, treated tresses exhibited reduced volumetric expansion compared to control samples. The magnitude of frizz reduction was observed across both hair types tested.
This behaviour indicates moderated moisture-induced swelling and improved fibre cohesion under environmental stress.
Discussion: Surface-Centred Performance in Haircare
The concurrent improvement observed in optical, mechanical, and humidity-related parameters suggests that surface modification plays a central role in the performance outcomes.
The increase in gloss is indicative of more homogeneous surface alignment. Reduced combing energy reflects decreased inter-fibre friction, likely attributable to lubrication effects at the cuticle interface. Improved humidity response suggests enhanced cohesion and moderated water-induced expansion.
While hair fibres are structurally distinct from the epidermis, both systems are strongly influenced by lipid-mediated interfacial behaviour. In skincare, squalane contributes to smoothing and barrier-supporting functions through surface affinity. In haircare, similar physicochemical principles – particularly lubrication and cohesive film formation – may explain the observed performance effects.
Importantly, the results are derived from controlled ex vivo testing. While they provide mechanistic insight, translation to in-use perception requires complementary sensory evaluation and consumer studies.
Implications for Haircare Research and Formulation
Within the framework of skinification, the integration of skincare-origin lipids into haircare formulations reflects a formulation-driven approach aimed at measurably improving hair quality.
Objective measurements allow formulators to better characterise ingredient functionality and to substantiate performance claims with data. This approach supports the development of more targeted, evidence-based formulations similar to those that have been used for years in skincare.
In this context, the interest lies not in redefining testing strategies but in examining how a biomimetic lipid derived from olive sources can be positioned within haircare systems to address surface-centred performance objectives aligned with current formulation trends.
Conclusion
The study of trends in haircare resulting in the application of a skincare-established lipid to haircare demonstrates how skinification can translate into formulation strategies aimed at supporting surface-centred hair performance.
The observed effects on gloss, combability, and frizz control indicate that incorporating Phytosqualan Olive, an olive-derived biomimetic lipid, into rinse-off haircare formulations may contribute to improving surface alignment, reducing inter-fibre friction, and enhancing fibre cohesion under humidity stress. These parameters are directly associated with perceived shine, manageability, and environmental resistance – key attributes in contemporary haircare formulations.
The results presented provide a structured basis for further exploration of biomimetic lipids within contemporary haircare development.
References and notes
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Juliette Prou, Sales Director at SOPHIM, will present ‘From Skin to Hair: How Phytosqualan Olive Elevates Haircare’ at in-cosmetics Global on Wednesday 15 April from 15:40–16:10 in Technical Seminar Theatre 2, Hall 7, Level 3 (Booth 3C130).
