Tony Abboud, Chief Commercial Officer (CCO) at Core Biogenesis
Abstract
Hair thinning and scalp ageing are multifactorial processes involving alterations in follicular signalling, scalp barrier function, hydration balance, and sebum regulation. While conventional haircare products largely focus on cosmetic improvement of the hair fibre, emerging biotechnology approaches aim to address biological mechanisms, including underlying follicular activity and scalp homeostasis.
Fibroblast growth factor-2 (FGF-2) is a signalling protein known to play a role in dermal papilla activity, tissue regeneration, and follicular biology. The application of growth factors in cosmetic formulations has historically been limited by issues related to protein stability and limitations in effective topical delivery. This article describes a biotechnology platform, presented as a case study, in which biomimetic FGF-2 is produced in plants and fused to natural oleosome structures that function as both stabilising carriers and delivery systems. A randomised, placebo-controlled clinical study involving subjects with telogen effluvium demonstrated measurable improvements across multiple parameters of scalp and hair health within 28 days of topical application, including increases in hair density, hair shaft thickness, scalp hydration, and anagen/telogen ratio, together with reductions in sebum production and transepidermal water loss. These results suggest that oleosome-associated biomimetic proteins may represent a new category of performance ingredients for scalp care applications.
Introduction
Hair thinning represents one of the most common consumer concerns in the global haircare market. Although numerous cosmetic products claim to address hair loss or improve hair quality, many formulations primarily focus on the appearance and sensory properties of the hair fibre rather than the biological processes occurring within the scalp and hair follicle.
Hair growth is regulated by interactions between follicular epithelial cells, dermal papilla cells, and the surrounding scalp microenvironment. The follicle undergoes a cyclical process consisting of three phases: anagen (growth), catagen (regression), and telogen (rest). Alterations in this cycle, particularly shortening of the anagen phase and increased transition to telogen, contribute to hair thinning and reduced hair density.
In addition to follicular cycling, scalp physiology plays a significant role in hair health. Hydration levels, barrier integrity, and sebum balance influence the follicular microenvironment and can affect follicular signalling pathways.
Consequently, the development of active ingredients capable of influencing follicular biology and scalp physiology represents an important direction for innovation in haircare.
Biomimetic Growth Factors in Cosmetic Science
Among these molecules, growth factors are of particular interest due to their role in regulating cellular proliferation, tissue repair, and extracellular matrix dynamics. Growth factors are naturally produced within the skin and participate in signalling pathways involved in tissue homeostasis.
Fibroblast growth factor-2 (FGF-2) is a multifunctional signalling protein that plays a role in several biological processes relevant to hair biology. These include stimulation of dermal papilla cell activity, regulation of follicular growth signalling pathways, and promotion of angiogenesis within the follicular microenvironment.
Despite their biological relevance, the incorporation of growth factors into topical cosmetic products has historically been limited by two major challenges: molecular instability and delivery limitations.
Stability and Delivery Challenges
Growth factors are relatively fragile proteins that can lose biological activity when exposed to environmental stressors such as elevated temperatures, ultraviolet (UV) radiation, oxidation, or unfavourable pH conditions. As a result, maintaining protein integrity within cosmetic formulations can be challenging.
Additionally, growth factors are relatively large macromolecules. Their size can limit diffusion through the stratum corneum, which represents the primary barrier to topical delivery.
Recent developments in biotechnology and delivery systems are enabling new strategies to address these challenges.
Plant-Based Production of Recombinant Proteins
Traditional recombinant protein production relies primarily on microbial fermentation systems involving bacteria or yeast cultured in large bioreactors.
An alternative approach involves plant biofactories, in which plants are engineered to produce biomimetic proteins during their growth cycle.
Plant-based expression systems offer several advantages, including scalability through agricultural production, reduced environmental impact, and compatibility with natural plant lipid structures.
One particularly useful biological structure found in plant seeds is the oleosome.
Oleosomes as Biological Delivery Systems
Oleosomes are intracellular lipid storage structures naturally present in plant seeds. Structurally, oleosomes consist of a central lipid core surrounded by a phospholipid monolayer embedded with specialised proteins known as oleosins. This structure provides inherent physical stability and protects the lipid core from coalescence.
Oleosomes possess several characteristics that make them attractive as delivery systems for topical cosmetic applications:
- Intrinsic stability in aqueous environments
• Structural compatibility with skin lipid matrices
• Ability to associate with biomolecules produced in plants
Using plant biotechnology, proteins can be fused to oleosome-associated structures during the production process. This creates a hybrid system in which the oleosome functions both as a carrier and as a protective environment for the protein.
Such fusion systems can enhance protein stability and improve interaction with stratum corneum lipids.
Case study: Development of an Oleosome-Associated Biomimetic FGF-2
Using this biotechnology platform, a biomimetic form of fibroblast growth factor-2 was produced in plants and associated with oleosome structures.
The objective of this approach is to deliver biologically active FGF-2 to the scalp in a stabilised format capable of interacting with follicular signalling pathways.
To evaluate the performance of this active ingredient, a randomised, placebo-controlled clinical study was conducted.
Clinical Study Design
The clinical evaluation involved forty female volunteers aged between 30 and 55 years presenting with hair loss associated with telogen effluvium.
Participants were randomly assigned to one of two groups.
Twenty subjects applied a placebo scalp serum twice daily, while the remaining twenty subjects applied a serum containing 2% of the Oleosome-FGF2 active twice daily.
Instrumental measurements were performed at baseline and after 28, 56, and 84 days of treatment.
Multiple parameters associated with scalp and hair health were assessed, including hair density, hair shaft thickness, hair growth cycle distribution, scalp hydration, barrier function, and sebum production.
Effects on Hair Growth Cycle
Hair follicle activity was evaluated by measuring the ratio between hairs in the anagen phase and those in the telogen phase.
After 28 days of treatment, subjects using the formulation containing Oleosome-FGF2 demonstrated a 14.0% increase in the anagen-to-telogen ratio compared with baseline values.
This shift toward a higher proportion of actively growing follicles suggests stimulation of follicular signalling pathways involved in hair growth.
Effects on Hair Density
Instrumental measurements showed a 33.6% increase in hair density after 28 days of treatment in the active group relative to baseline.
This increase indicates enhanced follicular activity and a greater number of visible hair fibres within the measured scalp area.
Effects on Hair Shaft Thickness
Subjects applying the active formulation demonstrated a 5.0% increase in hair shaft thickness after 28 days of treatment. Continued improvements were observed throughout the study period, exceeding 10% by day 84.
Effects on Scalp Hydration
Corneometric measurements indicated a 17.5% increase in scalp hydration after 28 days in the active treatment group compared with baseline.
Improved hydration may support overall scalp comfort and contribute to optimal follicular conditions.
Effects on Sebum Regulation
Measurements showed a 29.2% reduction in scalp sebum levels after 56 days of treatment with the active formulation.
This reduction suggests a balancing effect on scalp lipid production.
Discussion
The clinical study demonstrated improvements across multiple parameters associated with scalp health and hair growth within a relatively short treatment period.
Unlike many conventional haircare ingredients that primarily influence the cosmetic properties of the hair fibre, the oleosome-associated biomimetic FGF-2 active appears to interact with biological mechanisms related to follicular activity and scalp physiology.
The simultaneous improvement in hair density, hair shaft thickness, scalp hydration, and sebum balance suggests a multifactorial mechanism of action targeting both follicular signalling and scalp homeostasis.
The use of plant biofactory systems combined with oleosome-based delivery technology provides a promising strategy for stabilising biomimetic proteins and facilitating their interaction with skin tissues.
Conclusion
Hair thinning and scalp ageing involve complex biological mechanisms that extend beyond the hair fibre itself. Advances in biotechnology are enabling the development of active ingredients capable of interacting with signalling pathways that regulate follicular activity and scalp physiology.
Plant-derived biomimetic proteins associated with oleosome delivery systems represent a novel strategy for improving protein stability and facilitating topical delivery.
These findings suggest that oleosome-stabilised biomimetic proteins may represent a promising new class of biotechnology-based actives for scalp care and hair thinning applications.
Reference: Core Biogenesis research
About the author:
Tony J. Abboud is a trailblazer at the intersection of biotechnology and beauty. As Chief Commercial Officer (CCO) at CORE Biogenesis, he’s leading the charge in bringing next-generation skincare actives – like Oleosome-fused Growth Factors – to market. With nearly 20 years of experience in biotech innovation, from skincare to medical devices, Tony is passionate about translating cutting-edge science into solutions that actually work.
Tony Abboud, Chief Commercial Officer (CCO) at Core Biogenesis, will present “If Growth Factors Work on Skin, What Happens on the Scalp? The Role of a Novel Oleosome-Growth Factor Fusion in Haircare Performance” at in-cosmetics Global on Wednesday, 15 April, 16:25–16:55 in Technical Seminar Theatre 2, Hall 7, Level 3.
in-cosmetics Global 2026 will take place from 14-16 April at the Paris Expo Porte de Versailles, France. Find the full conference programme here. For more information or to register to attend, visit the website here.
