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“Beauty and sustainability going hand-in-hand.” As market data shows, this would seem to be the most heartfelt and shared desire of today’s cosmetics consumers. Thanks to an increasingly widespread awareness of the environmental impact of our consumption habits and the importance of choosing ‘clean’ and ‘green’ products that respect the environment, as well as the health of the skin.
According to Market Research Future (MRFR), the Natural and Organic Cosmetics Market is expected to grow at a 9.49% CAGR and reach over USD 77,53 billion by 2030 (1). Moreover, the market research institute Nielsen IQ confirmed that sustainable and ‘green’ beauty will remain a priority for cosmetics consumers in 2023, who appear to be increasingly concerned about climate change, the state of the environment, and their individual impact on the climate (2). The data shows how the ‘green and sustainable’ trend (e.g., vegan, plant-based, organic, reusable/refillable packaging, low environmental impact products) continues to grow in the beauty industry and is almost certain to be a lasting trend (2).
In response to this new shared consumer sentiment, more and more cosmetic companies are trying to combine the search for efficacy in their products with the use of ingredients, technologies and structures that respect environmental and social sustainability systems, so that the brand values that are communicated remain credible and well-supported. From the production of natural ingredients from renewable sources to the development of new products derived from waste; from the choice of biodegradable or recyclable packaging materials through to production processes with a low CO2 footprint- the cosmetics industry is demonstrating an increasing concern for the environment and is keeping pace by adapting ingredients, materials, practices, and production systems.
SUSTAINABILITY IN THE BEAUTY SECTOR
Sustainability is a complex subject. It has been described as the ability of a system to maintain a balance between human needs and the planet’s ability to meet those needs, without compromising the ability of future generations to meet theirs (3). In other words, it implies the adoption of practices and behaviours that consider the long-term impact on the planet and society, seeking to minimise negative impacts and promoting the well-being of communities. In practice, measuring this impact is often difficult, because of the complexity of natural and social systems, and because it requires a long-term view and a systemic perspective, which is not always easy to assess.
Nevertheless, in our reference sector, the cosmetics industry, it is possible to identify certain elements and strategies regarding products or processes that can promote more responsible production and reduced environmental impact. For instance, the use of:
- Sustainable raw materials: to formulate products, ingredients are sourced from renewable primary materials of natural or organic origin. Subsequently, these substances are extracted through processes that minimise the impact on the environment, upon the biodiversity of terrestrial and marine flora and fauna, and once released into the environment they do not create damage to the ecosystem.
- Sustainable packaging: recyclable, reusable or biodegradable packaging materials possibly obtained from renewable sources, such as paper, glass, aluminium or recycled plastic, with the aim of reducing the amount of waste associated with the use of cosmetics.
- Production processes with low environmental impact: those where systems and technologies are applied to reduce the energy use -and so its carbon footprint-, and production processes with a lower environmental impact (e.g., minimising, recycling and correctly disposing of industrial waste).
- Transparent labelling: companies can have a positive impact by correctly and transparently informing consumers about the raw materials they use, the product characteristics, and the net environmental impact of a product, so that consumers can make informed decisions.
- Positive social impact: companies that respect, involve, and protect local communities in the production and trade of raw materials, providing them with fair and stable salaries and supporting the sustainable development of the community.
- Certifications: companies can decide to volunteer to comply with independent, verifiable requirements for a product and/or defined environmental and social sustainability criteria, to be validation by third-party certification. As such businesses can demonstrate where and how they have adopted responsible and sustainable practices towards their customers and all stakeholders.
There are several sustainability standards and schemes for cosmetics. Among these, some of the most important and well-known are the Roundtable on Sustainable Palm Oil (RSPO) for raw materials from palm and palm kernel oil; NATRUE, an internationally applicable private standard for natural and organic cosmetics; the Forest Stewardship Council (FSC) for sustainable forest management; Cradle to Cradle Certified (C2C) for system circularity; Carbon Trust Certification for reducing carbon footprints through the use of more efficient processes; B Corporation for companies pursuing high environmental and social performance.
There are many certifications and due to the combination of the sheer diversity, and possible duplication or redundancy of some labels, it is almost impossible for a cosmetics manufacturer to want/need to adopt them all, not least because of the accumulative cost. However, it remains a benefit to manufacturers when reassuring consumers and supporting claims substantiate to choose those certification schemes, and associated labels, that reflect their own values and the unique characteristics of their products.
SUSTAINABLE RAW MATERIALS
In this article, we will not discuss all aspects of sustainability in cosmetics but focus on raw materials.
To simplify, one could define as sustainable those raw materials that are cultivated, extracted, and produced in a responsible manner to reduce environmental impact and promote long-term sustainability. To achieve this, several aspects can be considered, including origin, farming methods, conservation of biodiversity, extraction and production processes, support for local communities, and their environmental fate they have once they reach the post-use phase.
For the elements and examples that follow, it should be noted that these are generalisations and that there are, of course, exceptions.
NATURAL ORIGIN
One of the most important aspects for the sustainability of cosmetic raw materials is natural origin as opposed to synthetic origin, which is commonly associated with petrochemical moieties. Specifically, raw materials obtained from plants, are generally considered to be more sustainable than those of synthetic or petrochemical origin for several reasons, including the fact that plants are renewable (potentially inexhaustible if farmed sustainably) and sequester carbon during growth, as opposed to fossil sources (such as oil, natural gas, and coal), which are finite and release rather than sequester carbon. In cosmetics, choosing raw materials of natural origin means contributing to reducing the use of fossil fuels, whose industry is highly polluting due to greenhouse gas emissions and is one of the main causes of climate change.
In any case, a distinction should be made between ‘natural’ and ‘derived natural’ ingredients. On the market today there are various definitions for how these terms should be interpreted. For instance, ISO 16128 takes the definition for natural to include the possible use of products from GMO plants and microorganisms, whereas NATRUE prohibits such GMOs. Likewise for derived natural, ISO 16128 defines this term as a cosmetic ingredient of greater than 50 % natural origin, whereas the definition given by the NATRUE standard does not permit semi-synthetic derived naturals and requires the cosmetic ingredient to be made from 100% natural, non-GMO origin and establishes a positive list of chemical modification reactions that may be used to product a derived natural substance.
ORGANIC FARMING
Organic farming is a high-value option for sustainability of natural ingredients. Through a sustainable management system, this form of agriculture reduces soil pollution, promotes biodiversity and soil fertility, and uses resources more efficiently. Several countries have established standards and regulations to ensure the production, processing, transport, storage, labelling and inspection of organic products. These include Regulation (EU) 2018/848 and the other standards of the IFOAM family that, for example, ban genetically modified organisms (GMOs) and only allow the use of approved fertilisers and pesticides, excluding synthetic ones.
The NATRUE label recognises and values the presence of organic ingredients in cosmetic products bearing its seal. In addition, in the absence of an official regulatory definition for the claim organic cosmetic, NATRUE has set verifiable criteria to define ‘organic cosmetics’ based on a requirement for organic content in combination with specific formulation requirements depending on the product category. To support this criteria NATRUE has established guidelines for product claims that reflect the label criteria, like natural or organic.
When it comes to organic cosmetics, it is crucial to rely on strict standards such as those offered by international non-profit associations like NATRUE, whose criteria are evaluated by an independent and accredited third-party control body. This certification is given exclusively to products that comply with precise formulation criteria, taking into account the greater complexity of cosmetic formulations compared to food.
CIRCULARITY
Referring to the origin of substances only, the “Oscar” for cosmetic ingredients sustainability could perhaps be awarded to ingredients recovered from the waste of other processes, e.g., the food industry. Interesting examples include:
- grape seed oil and resveratrol (extracted from red grape skins), both by-products of wine processing;
- essential oils from citrus peels, grapefruit seed extracts, or apricot kernel powder – all derived from waste from fruit juice production;
- or rice wax, which is obtained from rice bran, and which is also discarded during the production of rice as food.
There are many examples of this ‘virtuous circle’ between the food waste and products that can be valorised downstream in the cosmetic raw material industries and NATRUE encourages this and other sustainable practices.
PROCESSING METHODS: EXTRACTION
Another aspect to be considered for the sustainability of cosmetic raw materials regards the processing methods. For example, cold or low-temperature extraction can be used to avoid excessive energy consumption while preventing certain beneficial substances from being destroyed during the process. The use of cold (pressing) methods will of course have to be optimised considering the microbiological aspects (as high temperatures would have the advantage of reducing the bacterial load).
Speaking of extractions, in terms of sustainability, the choice of solvent is important. For a large number of plant extracts, it is possible to use solvents of natural origin such as water, ethanol or glycerin, but in other instances, the chemical characteristics of the substances being extracted or purified may require the use of petrochemical-based solvents (e.g., hexane). This is the case with unsaponifiables and certain ingredients obtained from seeds, fruit stones, roots, etc. In such cases – i.e., where it is not possible to use solvents of natural origin – it is essential that the solvents are completely removed from the substance and possibly recovered and recycled in order to avoid dispersing them in the environment. For extracts, the NATRUE standard allows extraction with water, natural or derived natural substances or supercritical CO2, and either excludes extraction with synthetic solvents or limits their use to certain classes of ingredients.
PROCESSING METHODS: FERMENTATION
Fermentation is another example of processes that goes in the direction of greater sustainability. Cosmetic raw materials obtained by fermentation are commonly produced using microorganisms, such as bacteria or yeasts, or isolated enzymes to transform natural substrates (such as sugars, starches or other organic compounds) into the desired compounds.
Sustainability lies in the fact that they are highly efficient and selective processes, that often cut down the number of steps that would be required for chemical synthesis, as well as the energy consumption, the quantity of solvents, and any polluting waste formed as part of processes.
Examples of these ingredients are plant extracts in which yeasts and probiotics are fermented (e.g., lysates,) as well as a variety of individual substances such as hyaluronic acid, organic acids, ceramides, vitamins, amino acids and natural biopolymers such as xanthan gum. The potential of fermentation techniques is huge, both in terms of their overall sustainability, the reduced environmental impact of the processes, the variety of ingredients that can be obtained, and the level of customisation. The NATRUE standard favours and encourages the use of cosmetic ingredients obtained by fermentation, where the criteria require substances to be obtained without the use of feedstocks from GMO origin or GMO processing aids.
OTHER METHODS: (STEM) CELL CULTURES
Some cosmetic raw materials can be produced using cell culture techniques, which avoid the need to cultivate whole plants and can be more resource-efficient, requiring less soil, water, and nutrients, enabling continuous production and avoiding deforestation and land use. Furthermore, cell cultures can be conducted in sterile environments, reducing the risk of pathogen contamination, and eliminating the need for pesticides. However, this method can also present challenges such as infrastructural complexities and high costs.
SYNTHESIS WITH GREEN CHEMISTRY
The production of cosmetic raw materials that cannot be extracted directly from nature can be achieved by using green chemistry methods, which aims to reduce the environmental impact of processes by developing efficient and sustainable methods that minimise the use of hazardous substances and generate less waste. Therefore, by promoting the sustainable use of resources and the adoption of methods that are safer for the environment.
Some cosmetic ingredients, although of natural origin, require chemical transformations to acquire certain cosmetic functions, e.g., surfactants or emulsifiers. The NATRUE standard accepts ‘derived natural’ cosmetic ingredients for product formulation, setting limits and restrictions on the chemical processes that can be used to ensure that they remain consistent with the principles of green chemistry, and rejects ingredients obtained from synthetic or semi-synthetic sources.
BIODEGRADABILITY
After talking about the origin of cosmetic raw materials, it is appropriate to discuss the fate of these substances once they are released into the environment. An important requirement for cosmetic raw materials – particularly surfactants in rinse-off cosmetics that end up in domestic drains – is biodegradability. This means the ability of organic substances and materials to be degraded into simpler substances (e.g., water, CO2) through the assistance of microbes in the environment. This characteristic is important for pollution reduction as biodegradable materials can be decomposed naturally without accumulating in the environment and limiting damage to the health of living organisms, including humans.
Regulation (EC) No 648/2004 on detergents provides test methods for evaluating the biodegradability of surfactants. NATRUE references this regulation in its standard – requiring surfactants used for cleansing purposes to be completely biodegradable. This criterion aims to reduce the environmental impact of cosmetics being discharged into drainage systems.
TRANSPARENCY
Sustainability for cosmetic raw materials should also include concepts such as transparency and accountability, Ingredient suppliers should provide transparent information about their production practices and the origin of raw materials in order to provide clear and accurate information that enables informed choices for their customers and, ultimately, for end consumers who use the products made with these raw materials. By choosing to adhere to the NATRUE standard, cosmetic ingredient manufacturers enhance the communication of the natural and sustainable characteristics of their products quickly, clearly, and reliably through a well-established and internationally recognised Seal of Approval.
SUPPORT FOR LOCAL COMMUNITIES
Companies wishing to produce cosmetic ingredients in a sustainable way often collaborate with local communities to produce raw materials, providing them with a stable income and supporting balanced community development. In response to an increasing demand of environmental and social commitment from conscious consumers, it remains desirable for cosmetic ingredient manufacturers to increasingly invest sustainable sourcing and support of local communities as partners for production and trade.
In this context, the role of certification according to official norms and regulations or internationally recognised private standards is crucial, both for manufacturers of cosmetic ingredients, formulators who use these ingredients to create natural cosmetics, and the end user.
SUMMARY
The adoption of labels associated with third-party certification offers a number of benefits to cosmetic ingredient manufacturers, including increased credibility and a better reputation in the natural cosmetics industry; the ability to differentiate themselves in the market; access new markets, new distributors and retailers, and connect with other industry professionals; and to adhere to high sustainability standards.
As an example of this, approval or certification of cosmetic raw materials to the requirements of the NATRUE label criteria supports to promote products’ sustainability, quality and integrity to the natural cosmetics sector, offering users a more informed and responsible choice, while supporting downstream finished product manufacturers who are committed to producing high quality and sustainable cosmetics.
REFERENCES AND NOTES
- https://www.marketresearchfuture.com/reports/natural-organic-cosmetics-market-7257
- https://nielseniq.com/global/en/insights/education/2023/2023-clean-sustainable-innovation/
- Definition of Sustainability according to ISO Guide 82:2019: “State of the global system, including environmental, social and economic aspects, in which the needs of the present are met without compromising the ability of future generations to meet their own need.”, https://www.iso.org/obp/ui/#iso:std:iso:guide:82:ed-2:v1:en
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