Field Notes from the 2024 82nd Annual Meeting of the American Academy of Dermatology Meeting
10 July 2024
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OVERVIEW Over 19,809 dermatologists and others interested in the field of dermatology attended the
Issue: Vol. 17
Post-show report: 32nd IFSCC congress
17 November 2022
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The International Federation of Societies of Cosmetic Chemists (IFSCC) is a global association of
Harmonised Classification: how transparency and data can affect regulation across the industry
17 November 2022
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The quality and regulatory landscape is an ever-changing but exceptionally important backdrop to the chemical industry. As it shifts in accordance with customer needs, safety information is altering at a rapid pace. In recent years, that shift has largely been driven by a new agenda: sustainability. Consequentially, regulators in the personal care sector are looking to impose new and tighter environmental regulations on the industry to reduce hazardous chemicals, whilst retaining high performance standards.
This article will delve into the challenges, both unique and universal, faced in the personal care industry, the methods that are being implemented to smooth the regulatory transition moving forward, and how these are mirroring those already seen in the performance chemicals sector.
Personal care ingredients market in a Post-COVID-19 world
17 November 2022
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The COVID-19 pandemic impacted the personal care industry and personal care ingredients demand. The impact of Covid on personal care ingredients was not necessarily negative. While color cosmetics and sun protection products, were adversely impacted, demand for hand sanitizers skyrocketed. Supply chains were also affected by COVID-19.
As COVID-19 subsides, offices are opening, and tourism has increased. This will drive back demand for personal care products. However, the permanence of habits such as frequent hand washing and wearing of masks, along with supply chain reorganization and more, is expected to continue to impact personal care ingredients demand in the future. This article will provide insights on the course the personal care ingredients industry is going to take in the post-COVID-19 world.
Formula protection and development: how to surf the microbiota-ingredients wave
17 November 2022
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Have you ever wondered if introducing probiotic-derived ingredients could interfere with the sensoriality of your formula? And what if it unbalances the preservative system? ROELMI HPC is here to share our formulation tips for well-studied cosmetic ingredients combinations that will take care of your Skin Microbiota.
Structuring oil phases in personal care products
17 November 2022
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Cosmetic emulsions are often used to deliver oil soluble actives from aqueous external phases. After these emulsions are applied to the skin or hair, the volatile phase evaporates, leaving behind the actives, surfactants and any other non-volatile component. The aesthetics from this type of emulsion is encountered on application, after evaporation of the water and after spreading out on the skin. Additionally, a major concern that often is overlooked is introduction of water on the skin by sweating, swimming or encountering rain. If not properly selected, the emulsifiers in the formulation can re-emulsify the oil phase and remove the actives or oils off of the skin.
This article will look at two different materials that will structure the oil phase of an emulsion. This structuring of the oil phase will have dramatic effects on the emulsion’s stability and performance. In vivo and in vitro SPF data will be presented to show the effect of these thickeners in sun care products, as well as microscope images and viscosity to demonstrate how these thickeners can be used to decrease the emulsifier concentration.
SILICONES – INSIGHTS
17 November 2022
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Silicones are macromolecules constituted by a flexible but structurally solid backbone of silica and oxygen. Silicones are highly exploited in personal care products because of their properties: they are de facto inert compounds able to give to cosmetics formulation an easily spreadable and silky texture. Their physiological inertness is particularly beneficial in terms of cosmetic use and skin chemical compatibility. Silicones and their derivatives are in fact used, for instance, as emollients, humectants, emulsifiers, antifoaming, viscosity-controlling agents, antistatic and binding agents, etc.
As above-mentioned, silicones can be found in very different personal care products. For this reason, specific criteria of selection were necessarily applied in this “insights “section to narrow done the potential innovations. This literature review is therefore organized into two macro-areas:
1) Silicones in skin care. In the first study, a thiolated silicone oils was inserted in protective creams and their impact on efficacy was assessed. The second abstract discusses the development of a highly persistent silicone-based sprayable emulsion for the treatment of skin infections. Finally, the third study reports self-healing antibacterial injectable dual-network silica-based nanocomposite hydrogel scaffolds that significantly enhance the diabetic wound healing/skin tissue formation.
2) Silicones in hair care. The first study investigated the delivery to hair follicles of thiolated and PEGylated silica nanoparticle, while the second abstract is based on the comparison, after follicular unit extraction hair transplantation, between a novel silicone gel wound dressing and the bacitracin.
Why are there silicones in cosmetic formulas?
16 November 2022
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After water, hydrocarbons are by far the most common ingredients used in making personal
Gen Z and perennials – A different approach to make up?
16 November 2022
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Two great generations in comparison, Generation Z and Perennials. The first one is well known to everybody because they are the people of the web, digital natives, always connected and curious to experiment with new experiences.
On the other hand Perennials are one or two generations ahead of Gen Z. But both of them love make-up even though naturally they have a different approach to it. In this article we will try to discover if, among the many differences, it is possible to find some points in common.
Design debunking – color alone won’t move the needle
16 November 2022
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Color psychology is a popular marketing and design tool to impact consumers’ impressions of a brand and whether different colors and color combinations will drive consumer perceptions or purchases. Yet, overgeneralization of color and perception can be misleading, leading brands to underestimate the impact of individual experiences and product context. While green has long been associated with health and nature, a lime green logo may have a different impact on the consumer than a lime green drink or a lime green scarf, none of which may have anything to do with nature or health. Brands should consider context experience when choosing colors for their products.
