Evaluating formulations – Establishing salient specifications
The development of a commercially successful cosmetic formulation requires chemist to consider many different properties that the consumer demands. These include the requirement the product functions as required. This first requirement is clearly critical to consumer acceptance, a shampoo that does not clean hair will not be successful, but this attribute alone is just one step. The formulator must deal with a number of other formulation issues including secondary properties of the formulation including wetting viscosity, aesthetics, preservation, color and odor. The evaluation of these issues is complicated by the fact there is no simple analytical test available. If the product is an emulsion the formulator must deal with the product’s properties as applied, but during application and finally performance after rub-out. This article will look at some predictive tests that will help minimize problems related to oxidation, including odor and color formation.
There are many properties that can be measured using existing analytical methods that are simple, for example titrations. While simple and necessary, they can often not provide vital information on the stability of the formulation. The formulator must develop salient specifications, that is specifications and test methods that describe essential properties that ensure that intended use of the formulation can be satisfactorily realized.