Issue: Vol. 17

Evaluating formulations – Establishing salient specifications

The development of a commercially successful cosmetic formulation requires chemist to consider many different properties that the consumer demands. These include the requirement the product functions as required. This first requirement is clearly critical to consumer acceptance, a shampoo that does not clean hair will not be successful, but this attribute alone is just one step. The formulator must deal with a number of other formulation issues including secondary properties of the formulation including wetting viscosity, aesthetics, preservation, color and odor. The evaluation of these issues is complicated by the fact there is no simple analytical test available. If the product is an emulsion the formulator must deal with the product’s properties as applied, but during application and finally performance after rub-out. This article will look at some predictive tests that will help minimize problems related to oxidation, including odor and color formation.
There are many properties that can be measured using existing analytical methods that are simple, for example titrations. While simple and necessary, they can often not provide vital information on the stability of the formulation. The formulator must develop salient specifications, that is specifications and test methods that describe essential properties that ensure that intended use of the formulation can be satisfactorily realized.

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A safe and dignified life for people with albinism

Beyond Suncare is a Non-Governmental Organisation (NGO) that aims to protect people with albinism from skin cancer, discrimination and attacks. The NGO has a longstanding cooperation with BASF to develop and provide sunscreen that meets the specific challenges of people with albinism in the sub-Saharan region. The chemical company provides its expertise and ingredients free of charge. Together, Beyond Suncare and BASF have formulated an innovative sun care product that cuts the risk of skin cancer for vulnerable people. This is just one way that this initiative is improving quality of life, safety and dignity for people with albinism in Africa.

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Post-pandemic beauty: The growing role of ingredients

Today’s beauty consumer is smarter than ever, diving deeper into research before committing to a product purchase. With the pandemic bringing wellness, health and safety to the forefront, ingredients have emerged as another influential tool in consumers’ research path to purchase.
This article provides a perspective on the current state of ingredient led searches in the beauty industry, and how they could evolve in the future. It encourages people to rethink the growing influence of up and coming educational sources, like social media and influencers, uncovering necessary strategies to keep up with everchanging consumer demands.

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The rise of cleanical beauty

Consumers have grown increasingly frustrated in recent years over the choice between natural skin care products or products that are proven effective. With consumers voicing concerns over ingredient safety, the call for “cleanical” skin care products has never been greater. Cleanical skincare is blurring the lines between clinically proven products with a focus on clean and sustainable ingredients. Functional naturals and “clean chemicals” combine to deliver the best of both worlds to consumers.

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The use of cannabidiol and cannabis derivates in cosmetics

Cosmetics products containing Cannabidiol (CBD) or cannabis derivatives are booming on the market. In parallel, worldwide regulatory framework is being defined considering this new tendency. European Union is then harmonizing its requirements for the use of CBD. In USA, some states have implemented their specific requirements.

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CBD – an opportunity to build brand loyalty through information and education

CBD (cannabidiol) products are exploding on the global market. This cannabis-derived compound is being added to a variety of products ranging from pet care to sexual health, often including exaggerated claims suggesting CBD can cure almost any ailment. Additionally, conflicting stories in media about CBD make it challenging for consumers to form fact-based opinions. Understandably, consumers are overwhelmed and confused, a situation that often leads to their indecision and category exit. Brands would benefit by using an evidence-based approach to their inclusion of CBD in formulations and the claims they make on those products. Consumers need to be aware that CBD is not a simple vitamin or mineral supplement but a compound with complex effects that can impact the user’s physiology as well as interact with pharmaceutical medications, thus impacting efficacy and outcomes. Consumer communication and education around CBD and its benefits and risks are key to building consumer confidence and repeat purchase.

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HAIR CARE INSIGHTS

Among the very latest scientific trends in hair care we can recognize a high emphasis on 1) inclusivity and individualism, and 2) technological innovations based on nanotechnology. On one side there is a push towards the personalization of hair care also for niches of individuals; on the other there is an attempt to optimize the hair care products by resorting to the nanotechnological innovations. This literature review is therefore organised into two macro-areas:

  1. A focus on inclusive hair care, in particular its declination to two niches: a) Transgender individuals, who undergo to hair changes during hormonal therapy. The first abstract discusses in general the hair treatment options available for transgender women, while the second one specifically investigates galeatomy (a surgical incision into the galea) for scalp advancement. b) Black individuals, with hair proneness to dryness and fragility. The study presented provides a list of hair products and ingredients used by African Americans and should assist dermatologists in delivering culturally competent care.
  2. A focus on nanotechnological applications for the development of new and innovative hair/scalp care products. The first two studies review nanotechnology-enabled formulations and highlight their advantages over traditional ones. For instance, organic and inorganic nanocarriers for optimal nanodelivery are presented, with a focus in the second abstract on the hair product performance improvement of active compounds such as minoxidil, finasteride and permethrin. Finally, the last abstract describes the combination of plant oils (coconut, olive and Abyssinian oils) and nanotechnology to develop effective nanoemulsions in hair treatment.
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Outlook for beauty packaging

By the year 2100 there will be 11 billion people on the planet, 3 billion more than today (1). People lifted out of poverty into middle class will want beauty & personal care products. Sustainability is therefore the biggest topic in packaging, overshadowing packaging’s role as a protector, container & information carrier. Packaging has been demonised, even weaponised. We speak of it as an addiction. How do we de-escalate this situation? How do we wean ourselves off cheap products? Can we replace materials that have been used since the dawn of the modern beauty era: plastics?

We’ll explore 3 aspects in this article

  1. Refill systems & how to wean ourselves off plastic
  2. Cross-sensory perception – a new role for packaging in beauty care, linking in with emotional wellness
  3. From inert to active – going against the grain.
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