Issue: Vol. 17

A cosmetic chemists guide to clean beauty

Creating formulas in the cosmetic industry requires more than just finding the best ingredients and ratios to make the most effective and safe products you can. It also requires you to create formulas that give your marketing department good stories that resonate with consumers. That means it’s important for chemists to keep on top of trends in the industry and right now there is no bigger trend in cosmetics than Clean Beauty.

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Preferential oil penetration into hair

The selection of natural oils for conditioning of hair has often been a difficult decision. Many times it is based upon the availability of a particular oil based upon historic use or based upon pragmatic use of the oils on the hair. Additionally, hair is a complex structure requiring different oils in different places. The use of sophisticated analytical techniques to determine which oils stay on the surface or penetrate to different regions was done and is the topic of a patent application – US 2005/0069517. This Science for Formulators edition looks at this work. The result is a composition for application to the hair including: (i) a first hair conditioning agent, wherein such first hair conditioning agent penetrates the core of the hair; (ii) a second hair conditioning agent that penetrates into the cortex region of the hair but does not substantially penetrate into the core of the hair; and (iii) a third hair conditioning agent, that remains on the hair surface not substantially penetrating into the cortex of the hair.

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Bioenergy and stressed out skin, what can we do?

Skin is vulnerable to stress from ultraviolet light, with rays produced naturally from the sun or artificially via
tanning beds. Overexposure of ultraviolet light has the potential to cause premature ageing, decreased
bioenergy of the skin and skin cancer. While the damaging effects are recognised by the public, the
motivation for tanned skin is a driver for exposure for many individuals of the Caucasian population,
particularly in the UK. Sunless tanning products are widely available to consumers although often these
products do not offer any sun protection. Products combining sunless tanning ingredients with sun
protection have recently entered the market, therefore this review explores how these products offer a
safer alternative to ultraviolet tanning whilst synergistically reducing stressed out skin damage.

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Review of clinical studies for claim validations of European oral hygiene cosmetics – Part 1

The efficacy tests in the field of cosmetics used in oral care are evolving more and more with the arrival of new technological resources. In order to correctly support the claims of effectiveness, it becomes essential to understand which tests are currently available and which are the most reliable. In this review, the most widespread claims in the cosmetic market are taken into account and the mainly used tests to validate them, are reported. Research has shown that existing tests exploit specific endpoints. Consequently, it seems that a gold standard does not exist, and that the choice of efficacy tests strongly depends on the type of claim, equipment and experience of the experts involved.

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Hydroalcoholic hand sanitisers: challenges in formulating and delivering efficacious, safe and pleasant products

Since March 2020, hydroalcoholic hand sanitisers have taken a very important role in our daily life, as hand hygiene has become key for the prevention and the control of the spread of COVID-19. Consequently, the demand for this type of products was so high that rapidly ended up in a general shortage in the traditional distribution channels. Laboratorios Maverick, as many other cosmetic and perfume manufacturers, were called to support the global health emergency and quickly had to fast track and reconvert their production in order to deliver hand sanitisers. This article summarizes information on various aspects to be considered for the design, development, production and sale of this type of products.

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Cleaning and disinfecting resources for public health – U.S. consumer guidance on how to read cleaning and disinfecting product labels

The American Cleaning Institute (ACI) serves the growth and innovation of the U.S. cleaning products industry by advancing the health and quality of life of people and protecting our planet. With a continued effort in promoting public health and safety, its experts have developed guides on how to effectively read and identify key information on cleaning and disinfecting product labels.
Cleaning product manufacturers are providing more information than ever about what’s in their products. In the wake of high usage of cleaners and disinfectants during the pandemic, it’s equally important that consumers know how to use these products safely and effectively. Product labels contain explicit instructions on how to use a product, but consumers often don’t pay close attention to these use instructions. In this article, we build upon recommendations from the U.S. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC), U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) and cleaning product manufacturers to help guide consumers and workers on how to identify safety information on a label and appropriately clean and disinfect, whether they be at home, work, school or beyond.

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Challenges to consumers in choosing cleaning products: Poor performing products and problematic ingredients

The NordQual project, financed by the EU Consumer Programme, is a one-year cooperation between consumer organizations in Denmark, Finland, and Sweden to evaluate household cleaners.

Based on product testing and desk research on 166 household cleaning products, the project identified challenges to consumers in choosing effective products that minimize impacts to health and the environment. One challenge is poor performing products. Some products do not do the cleaning job consumers expect. Another challenge is problematic chemicals where some ingredients can be harmful to health or the environment.

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The power of consumer perception in home care – Context is key

Home care products enable consumers to express themselves, implying the product has meaning far beyond its functional purpose. The product communicates underlying messages through its sensory experience, which impacts the usage behavior of consumers. Yet to create the optimal sensory experience, the product should be evaluated in the context in which the consumer uses it.

Bringing the research into the home is a valuable approach to understand if the concept fits the context in which it will ordinarily be used. It is through contextual research that companies can discover and understand what means the most to the consumer. Additionally, key insights are gained through behavioral data because it reveals usage habits, which can be translated to consumer wants and needs.
The consideration of context is vital to fully appreciate the wants and needs of consumers. Harnessing those insights helps build a better product, brand, and company within a more personal industry like the home care space.

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