Issue: Vol. 17

Development of sophorolipid-chitosan pickering O/W emulsion formulations

23 September 2022 No Comments

Sophorolipids (SL) are well-known biosurfactants produced by the yeast S. bombicola, generally in a complex mixture between its lactonic and open acidic forms, both being partially acetylated. To overcome this issue, by alkaline hydrolysis we generate a fully acidic, non-acetyalted, form of SL. This acidic SL has a pH-responsive behaviour and above pH 6 can form complex coacervates with high-molecular weight chitosan by a simple mechanism of electrostatic attraction between the negative and positive forms of SL and chitosan, respectively. SL-chitosan complex coacervates are able to stabilize O/W emulsions by a Pickering mechanism. We show here their application in the formulation of O/W emulsions containing cosmetics-relevant raw materials, oils, preservatives and vitamins.

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Third-party sustainability certification of bio and circular chemicals as another part of the solution

23 September 2022 No Comments

The last years showed that changes on the micro level alone can already have an impact if a critical mass backs this up as latest market data indicates an increase in the use of alternative feedstocks for chemicals. With the recent introduction of related legislation finally the biggest lever will impact global value chains tremendously further. However, crop-based raw materials can be associated with certain risks as deforestation practices. Voluntary sustainability certification schemes can be an important tool for companies to implement and monitor sustainability efforts and comply with upcoming regulatory demands. Understanding how those operate also builds the base for consumers trust in respective logos and seals. This article provides an overview of the ISCC PLUS standard operations.

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Modulation of the cross-talk in melanogenesis: a novel multifunctional peptide

23 September 2022 No Comments

Pigmentation issues are one of the most common skincare concerns among consumers of all ages and gender. In this context, we present a smartly-designed peptide, D17ChAH, a novel acetyl hexapeptide-1, which was used to address skin pigmentation through a multi-target mechanism of action. The peptide tackles specific cell-to-cell communication network between fibroblasts, melanocytes and keratinocytes by significantly decreasing production of Stem Cell Factor (KITLG/SCF) protein in both, HDFa and HEKa. KITLG/SCF modulation leads to a decrease of the paracrine communication, reducing the number, size and dendrites of melanocytes. Finally, the clinical efficacy was performed on Asian volunteers, where we were able to conclude that novel acetyl hexapeptide-1 shows excellent skin lightening activity while highlighting the natural glow and boosting the skin antioxidation and hydration.

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Natural astaxanthin – the red diamond amongst antioxidants – An efficient antioxidant that provides biological cell protection against light-induced skin damage

23 September 2022 No Comments

Exposure to solar radiation is a major cause of physiological skin damage by promoting the formation of free radicals and triggering oxidative stress. Harmful UV irradiation leads to inflammation, accelerated skin ageing and malignant skin disease. Therefore, we need to protect our outermost barrier from harmful solar radiation to reduce light-induced skin changes.
Astaxanthin, a naturally occurring reddish pigment derived from the microalga Haematococcus pluvialis, is considered the most powerful natural antioxidant with no pro-oxidant or phototoxic character, highly effective in counteracting reactive oxygen species (ROS).
Numerous studies have shown astaxanthin’s positive effect on human skin. Due to its high antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, it supports the skin’s oxidative balance, inhibits inflammatory processes and provides natural protection of the human skin against a negative impact of UV rays. Furthermore, astaxanthin supports the skin’s biological cell protection against light-induced damage without providing a sun protection factor (SPF).

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Active ingredient designed to optimize mitochondrial activation – Efficacy assessment on skin energy

23 September 2022 No Comments

Aging is a multi-variable, non-stop process that involves skin thinning and vitality lost. When it occurs, skin complexion could become dull and tired and, as a result, aging signs are highlighted. It this occasion, mitochondria play a vital role and any dysfunction could induce cutaneous distresses.
This work aims at presenting the evidence of the effectiveness of a new cosmetic ingredient, developed through sustainable enzymatic technology, designed for promoting skin well-being, as result of a widespread vitality, providing positive conditions for metabolism and trophic cell processes.
A series of in-vitro and in-vivo tests will be described as a support of the scientific efficacy background of the ingredient, acting as a skin energizer.

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Biotic ingredients with a proven skin anti-aging effect – Two active ingredients based on Lactobacillus crispatus that help reduce the signs of skin aging

23 September 2022 No Comments

Demand for anti-aging cosmetic products is thriving – consumers are increasingly interested in healthy aging and natural safe ingredients. In this context, biotic ingredients are gaining popularity because they are associated with health, wellness and eco-friendliness. Two new biotic ingredients based on the Lactobacillus crispatus bacteria are now enabling cosmetics producers to respond to this trend. These solutions are among the first biotic ingredients derived from bacteria that are naturally present on the skin, and which decrease with aging. When applied onto the skin, the two specific Lactobacillus crispatus derived actives provide clinically proven antiaging benefits.

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ORAL CARE INSIGHTS

20 July 2022 No Comments

The oral cavity has the second largest and diverse microbiome after the gut and its microorganism composition has an important role in diverse healthy and diseased conditions. In fact, the oral microbiome is not only the initiation point of digestion, but it is also crucial in maintaining oral and systemic health. For this reason, when using oral hygiene products, we must take into consideration their possible effect on the oral microbiome/microbiota.

The following abstracts illustrate the most recent studies on the impact of oral care treatments on the oral microbiome/microbiota. The first two abstracts analyse the microbiome composition of healthy individuals undergoing an oral care routine. In the specific, the first study investigates the use of stannous ions containing products, that are often employed as preventive measure for dental erosion, and shows that, after three years of stannous ions use, the salivary microbiota composition can be associated to a healthy one. In the second study, oral care tablets containing kiwifruit powder are presented as a useful daily oral care product in reducing volatile sulphur compounds and bacteria content associated to diseases.
Finally, the last study shows that supplementation with inorganic NO3– can reduce periodontitis-associated bacteria and the pathogenic genus related to insulin resistance/glucose intolerance, therefore acting as potential prebiotic for oral microbiota dysbiosis associated with type 2 diabetes.

Scientific online resources as Pubmed and Google Scholar were used to retrieve articles of interest. To screen for the most advanced research, articles were selected between the years 2020 and 2022 with the following keywords: oral care, oral microbiome, oral microbiota.

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