Issue: Vol. 18

Hair loss claims – consumers and a borderline dilemma

13 November 2023 No Comments

Hair growth products in the EU are classified as borderline cosmetics, whereby claims are restricted, and from the regulatory perspective, taken on a ‘case by case’ basis. Such a position leaves many cosmetic products with applications in hair growth and hair loss in a dilemma — will their claims be challenged? The aim of the study was to establish the trends and patterns when consumers search for non-medicinal hair loss/hair growth products via online search engines, and to provide an understanding of the search terms they use when seeking non-medicinal hair loss/hair growth treatments. This commissioned consumer study demonstrates not only a gap between regulatory requirements and consumer understanding, but a real need for a better educational dialogue between the consumer, industry and regulatory bodies.

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Postbiotics, just a trend or more than that?

13 November 2023 No Comments

The use of postbiotics in the skincare industry is, currently, a trend. As is normal with trends, they come and go, but postbiotics have been in use in the skincare industry for more than 4 decades. They were never talked about, though, or part of the story telling around the products they were part of. They were in the formulation to perform a job as an active ingredient. A ‘silent partner’, so to say. As a matter of fact, postbiotic active ingredients might even be considered to be a success story among the hundreds of active ingredients which have been introduced to the cosmetic industry in the last 40-50 years.

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Deep learning, an artificial intelligence subset useful for cosmetics

13 November 2023 No Comments

Artificial intelligence (AI) is a set of theories and techniques capable of simulating human intelligence. Among AI, there are different subsets allowing to automatically classify and quantify a high amount of data. Deep learning is the most recent and can define for itself features allowing to identify and quantify information directly from an image. Two examples of deep learning applications on image analysis in the field of dermocosmetic research will be detailed in this publication.

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A step forward in personalizing beauty: the effect of 3D-printed skincare masks

13 November 2023 No Comments

The cosmetic industry is evolving with the advent of 3D printing, allowing personalization of skincare products. This study investigated how different print design settings affect the hydration performance of hydrogel-based masks. Using an extrusion-based 3D printer, 3-layered gelatin hydrogel occlusive and porous patches were printed and applied on healthy volunteers under no-occlusion (4h) and occlusion (24h; plastic occlusion stress test).
Results revealed occlusive patches enhanced moisture by 108.85%, in contrast to a 45.38% increase from porous patches. Additionally, the occlusive design showed greater variation in transepidermal water loss, while the porous variant reduced it by -9.96% after 4h. Porous patches also retained more skin surface water. Overall, mask geometry influences hydration, correlating with the skin occlusion degree determined by design.

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Lipid nanoparticles for the delivery of ginger oil and hexylresorcinol in the treatment of cutaneous hyperpigmentation

13 November 2023 No Comments

Our research introduces a promising new treatment approach that incorporates 4-hexylresorcinol (HR) and ginger oil (GO), delivered through lipid nanoparticles. By leveraging the power of nanotechnology, we have been able to significantly enhance the efficacy of these active ingredients. We expertly encapsulated them in nanostructured lipid carriers (NLCs) and solid lipid nanoparticles (SLNs) to maximize their bioavailability. Afterward, to assess the effectiveness of these formulations, we conducted a cosmetic clinical trial on a group of women with cutaneous hyper-pigmentations, utilizing CIE L*a*b* and melanin index colorimetric testing to analyze the results. Our findings demonstrate that SLNs and NLCs are highly effective carriers for addressing skin-related concerns, with promising applications in both the pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries.

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Sustainable active ingredients produced by biotechnology

13 November 2023 No Comments

The great challenges facing us today are climate change, geopolitical crises, pandemics, supply chain problems, and reduced biodiversity. The cosmetic industry is adapting to these problems by assuming social responsibility, paying attention to fair trade, and reducing the carbon dioxide footprint. It also considers the need for organic, “green” ingredients and has the goal to be sustainable along the entire value chain. Modern, innovative biotechnologies can fuel the cosmetic industry and simultaneously become more environmentally friendly.

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