Issue: Vol. 18

Among the very latest scientific trends in hair care we can recognize a high emphasis on 1) inclusivity and individualism, and 2) technological innovations based on nanotechnology. On one side there is a push towards the personalization of hair care also for niches of individuals; on the other there is an attempt to optimize the hair care products by resorting to the nanotechnological innovations. This literature review is therefore organised into two macro-areas:

1. A focus on inclusive hair care, in particular its declination to two niches: a) Transgender individuals, who undergo to hair changes during hormonal therapy. The first abstract discusses in general the hair treatment options available for transgender women, while the second one specifically investigates galeatomy (a surgical incision into the galea) for scalp advancement. b) Black individuals, with hair proneness to dryness and fragility. The study presented provides a list of hair products and ingredients used by African Americans and should assist dermatologists in delivering culturally competent care.
2. A focus on nanotechnological applications for the development of new and innovative hair/scalp care products. The first two studies review nanotechnology-enabled formulations and highlight their advantages over traditional ones. For instance, organic and inorganic nanocarriers for optimal nanodelivery are presented, with a focus in the second abstract on the hair product performance improvement of active compounds such as minoxidil, finasteride and permethrin. Finally, the last abstract describes the combination of plant oils (coconut, olive and Abyssinian oils) and nanotechnology to develop effective nanoemulsions in hair treatment.

Cannabinoids have emerged as promising bioactive ingredients in several attractive commercial applications. While trans-Δ9-tetrahydrocannabinol (Δ9-THC) and cannabidiol (CBD) are the most studied cannabinoids, there are over 100 other minor cannabinoids (considered “minor” due to their low concentration in cannabis plants). Yeast-based biomanufacturing of one such rare cannabinoid, cannabigerol (CBG), has emerged as an alternative production process enabling access to commercial-scale production of this compound making it a viable candidate for personal care products. Research has demonstrated CBG has distinct pharmacology compared to other cannabinoids such as CBD, making it an attractive ingredient for further study and commercial efforts. Here, we report transcriptomic analysis on skin cells treated with CBG to determine its effect the genomes compared to CBD. We find that CBG activates skin response to microbial attacks and downregulates skin pigmentation pathways, suggesting that it may provide benefits in anti-microbial and anti-hyperpigmentation personal care products.

Avocado (Persea Americana) consumption has experienced a remarkably fast increase in demand, which inevitably leads to significant waste along the production chain. In recent years, the increased awareness of the environmental impact linked to food loss generated a huge rise in demand for sustainable goods. In this study we evaluated the moisturising effect, and the mechanisms behind it, of an oil-soluble extract from aesthetically imperfect, and thus rejected, avocado fruits cultivated in Sicily. Through in vitro and ex-vivo studies, we demonstrated that this new active ingredient significantly up-regulated proteins with key functions in the maintenance of intracellular water balance. Moreover, we showed that the extract promoted an overall improvement of epidermal barrier function by increasing the synthesis of lipid structures. Finally, clinical studies showed that the extract improved skin hydration and dermal density.

The “skin microbiome” consists of the skin’s resident microorganisms (bacteria, archaea, fungi, viruses) as well as their genomic content and metabolic by-products. Modern techniques for sequencing DNA have enabled researchers to find microbes that could not be cultured in the lab using traditional microbiology culture techniques. Skin microflora is influenced by environmental conditions, temperature, humidity, clothing, exposure to pollution as well as internal factors like diet and psychological stress, thus making it very challenging to study and understand. Nevertheless, the cosmetic industry is teeming with products claiming to “balance” the skin microbiome. There is no doubt that there is a serious shift in microbiome diversity of diseased skin versus healthy skin. However, healthy skin is balanced already, so claims to balance healthy skin with cosmetics is somewhat a fallacy.
Studies are needed to determine the variations in the day to day, week to week as well as seasonal and other environmental factors on healthy skin microbiome of untreated skin to determine if the changes observed from cosmetic products is meaningful.

From conventional cosmetics to oral care and sexual wellbeing, the personal care industry is continuously expanding into the growing wellness and self-care space. In order to differentiate from other brands in an already crowded space, developers and marketers must find effective ways to connect with the consumer with products that have a real impact on consumer routines and lifestyles. Brands can address consumer priorities and interests with the inclusion of active ingredients to entice consumers and build confidence in buying decisions. Incorporating active ingredients into products to enhance the desired effect requires a favorable consumer perception to determine the true value of the additive. For a product with a commercialized active to be successful, brands must not only address the need but articulate and promote it in a way that consumers are familiar, driving not only the initial checkout but also future repurchases.

When HPC Today invited me to contribute this article, I was delighted at the prospect, yet concerned that, yet again, the industry needs reminding that the requirement to support product claims. What is it then, that despite the global Cosmetic Regulations, notably our own here in the EU, Marketing, Copy writers, and even many in ‘R&D’ still don’t get when it comes to testing cosmetics to support product claims? Why does that very word ‘test’ cause stress among many in the industry? This article looks at the key reasons why; the body of evidence; the types of testing available, and their differences; how these differences impact on not only what claims you make, but also interpretation and business risk in its wider context.