Issue: Vol. 18

Natural astaxanthin – the red diamond amongst antioxidants – An efficient antioxidant that provides biological cell protection against light-induced skin damage

Exposure to solar radiation is a major cause of physiological skin damage by promoting the formation of free radicals and triggering oxidative stress. Harmful UV irradiation leads to inflammation, accelerated skin ageing and malignant skin disease. Therefore, we need to protect our outermost barrier from harmful solar radiation to reduce light-induced skin changes.
Astaxanthin, a naturally occurring reddish pigment derived from the microalga Haematococcus pluvialis, is considered the most powerful natural antioxidant with no pro-oxidant or phototoxic character, highly effective in counteracting reactive oxygen species (ROS).
Numerous studies have shown astaxanthin’s positive effect on human skin. Due to its high antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, it supports the skin’s oxidative balance, inhibits inflammatory processes and provides natural protection of the human skin against a negative impact of UV rays. Furthermore, astaxanthin supports the skin’s biological cell protection against light-induced damage without providing a sun protection factor (SPF).

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Biotic ingredients with a proven skin anti-aging effect – Two active ingredients based on Lactobacillus crispatus that help reduce the signs of skin aging

Demand for anti-aging cosmetic products is thriving – consumers are increasingly interested in healthy aging and natural safe ingredients. In this context, biotic ingredients are gaining popularity because they are associated with health, wellness and eco-friendliness. Two new biotic ingredients based on the Lactobacillus crispatus bacteria are now enabling cosmetics producers to respond to this trend. These solutions are among the first biotic ingredients derived from bacteria that are naturally present on the skin, and which decrease with aging. When applied onto the skin, the two specific Lactobacillus crispatus derived actives provide clinically proven antiaging benefits.

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Fatty acids – Biological and cosmetic raw materials

Fatty acids and triglycerides make up a wide class of compounds that are vitally important in biological systems, they also find applications in personal care formulations. There is a particular interest in fatty acid esters and triglycerides that are liquid at ambient temperatures. The proper selection of fatty acids to make triglycerides and esters will allow for the cushion and play time in a personal care formulation that consumers require. The most common class of fatty acids is saturated fatty acids, which are solid at room temperature, excluding short chain fatty acids, C8 and below.
An approach to get liquid esters and triglycerides is to choose fatty acids that are either unsaturated, branched, or short chain fatty acids, such as C10 or C8 in Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides This article will look at the various classes of fatty acids comparing the various types to each other. Additionally, a series of fatty acids produced by bacteria having a unique structure will be introduced.

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Skincare compendium commentary article

In this compendium, I will take the opportunity to revisit articles published in 2022 in HPC today. Eight articles, from very diverse topics, were selected according to their novelty or relevancy and I will expand on each of them with my own views.

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The 6th IPCE conference 2023: SICC promoter of a new cosmetic “renaissance”

Italian, Japanese, American and French cosmetologists will meet from 7 to 8 June 2023 in Italy to experience two days of scientific confrontation and meeting, at last in the presence, of eminent personalities of international cosmetology.
IPCE (Intercontinental Personal Care Excellence Conference) is an experienced meeting formula that through lectures, discussions, and a wide range of posters, guarantees indispensable scientific updates in a friendly networking atmosphere, this year in Sardinia, Villasimius (CA).
Why this meeting is an opportunity for the comestic community today?
Here remarks from members of the IPCE international scientific committee given to HPC Today.

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