Marine Pasquier
Market & Digital Manager – Beauty Care, Seppic
295
Could you briefly introduce the Montanov range and its core philosophy?The Montanov™ range is an iconic line of bio-sourced O/W emulsifiers, based on Seppic’s expertise in sugar and polyol chemistry. The ingredients are manufactured in France, in our factory in Castres.The core philosophy behind the Montanov™ range is to create eco-designed ingredients by integrating environmental considerations throughout their lifecycle, while ensuring performance. This includes favoring renewable and sustainable sources, reducing environmental footprint, and promoting a circular economy. Another key feature of this range is its ability to produce liquid crystals that provide a lamellar structure, enhancing the stability of formulations and providing skin benefits.
The concept of natural origin is an established trend in the personal care industry. How does your Montanov range of emulsifiers embrace this trend?According to Mintel, in today’s market, consumers are looking for more than just natural products, with 67% of them now looking for sustainable beauty products (1). The Montanov™ range embraces this trend through several key factors. The emulsifiers are 100% of natural origin, as per the ISO 16128 norm. The sugars used are from wheat, and the fatty alcohols are sourced from vegetable oils. Furthermore, the production process adheres to the 12 principles of green chemistry, aiming to reduce CO2 emissions and recycle the residual biomass. These emulsifiers are COSMOS and Natrue approved and are readily biodegradable.To what extent can Seppic’s Montanov 202 and Montanov L meet today’s formulation challenges efficiently? What are their main properties?Montanov™ 202 (INCI: Arachidyl Alcohol, Behenyl Alcohol, Arachidyl Glucoside) and Montanov™ L (C14-22 Alcohols, C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside) are two natural O/W emulsifiers in the range. Montanov™ 202 is ideal for emulsion textures ranging from fluids to creams and waxes/sticks, while Montanov™ L is more versatile, covering sprayable textures and thick creams.While natural formulations offer numerous benefits, they also pose unique challenges for formulators. These challenges include formula stability, compatibility with other ingredients, uneven appearance, and sensorial properties. Such factors can introduce variability, making it harder to achieve consistent product performance and appearance compared to synthetic alternatives.
Montanov™ 202 and Montanov™ L efficiently meet today’s formulation challenges through their main properties. They are easy to formulate and their non-ionic structure ensures compatibility with pigments and most active ingredients, both anionic and cationic.
Furthermore, Montanov™ 202 has strong emulsifying properties with all types of oils (esters, alkanes, vegetable oils, silicone, mineral oils…). It easily emulsifies 40% of oil and up to 60% of oil depending on the formulation.
Beyond texture creation, what in-vivo proven skin benefits do the Montanov emulsifiers offer?For example, when a Montanov™ 202 emulsifier is used, its benefits go beyond simply creating texture. Thanks to its lamellar structure, which resembles the lipids found in the stratum corneum, it strengthens the skin’s natural lipid organization. This was highlighted in an ex vivo study in which the stratum corneum’s lipids were analyzed using X-ray microdiffraction.The presence and organisation of lipids in untreated stratum corneum, in the emulsion, and in the skin after emulsion application were compared. The results showed identical lipid organization, highlighting that application of an emulsion containing Montanov™ 202 respects the organisation of stratum corneum lipids. Furthermore, the results showed partial insertion of emulsion lipids between stratum corneum lipids, highlighting that Montanov™ 202 emulsions reinforce the organization of stratum corneum lipids.
In vivo corneometry tests have shown that some Montanov™ emulsifiers offer a moisturizing effect for up to 24 hours after application. Additionally, Montanov™ L has been tested as a booster for active ingredients, exemplified by Sakadikium™ (INCI: Glycerin, Water, Hedychium Coronarium Root Extract), an exposome protector for a radiant complexion. In vivo results demonstrate that Montanov™ L enhances the perceptible effect of Sakadikium™ on skin complexion compared to an ethoxylated emulsifier. This makes these emulsifiers perform functions that extend beyond the role of excipients.
For which types of emulsions is the Montanov range of emulsifiers suitable, and could you describe the types of textures that can be achieved with this line?Our O/W emulsifiers are suitable for all types of skin and can be used to formulate a variety of consistencies and textures. The Montanov™ range can create everything from sprays and milks to creams, butters, and waxes. They can also achieve different textures, including light and evanescent, melting, or rich.MONTANOV™ 202 a versatile emulsifier that offers multiple textures and consistencies.
Emotional and sensorial experiences are a strong trend in today’s market. How do Montanov emulsifiers contribute to these aspects beyond their basic role in emulsion stability?Excipients form the cornerstone of a product’s sensory experience, which is why formulators are increasingly demanding sensory data to help them select the most suitable ingredient for their product. In response, Seppic has released comprehensive new sensory characterisation data for its emulsifier range, leveraging its deep formulation expertise and understanding of customer needs. This detailed analysis gives formulators insight into the appearance, texture and feel of the skin of key ingredients.The creation of textures by Montanov™ emulsifiers has been demonstrated to enhance emotional and sensorial experiences. For instance, Montanov™ 202 and Montanov™ L both provide a light touch, but with distinct characteristics. Montanov™ 202 produces ultra-white emulsions with extended playtime, leaving the skin matte and soft with a particularly appreciated nourishing sensation. In contrast, Montanov™ L offers consistency and a nourishing and moisturizing sensation, culminating in an ultra-soft finish.
How do Montanov emulsifiers perform across different skin types, climates, or product formats?Montanov™ emulsifiers offer versatile performance across various conditions, enabling the creation of formulations suitable for all skin types and applications, including skincare, make-up, sun care, and hygiene. Notably, Montanov™ 202 has demonstrated excellent tolerance for sensitive areas such as baby’s skin, vaginal flora, gingival epithelium, and the ocular area, making it ideal for all hygiene formulations.Furthermore, Montanov™ 202 and Montanov™ L have been evaluated for skin hydration performance across a wide range of phototypes (II to VI). Formulations were specifically developed and adapted to regional preferences, with lighter textures for hot, humid climates and richer textures for temperate regions. Tests conducted in diverse climates and regions, including France, China, India, Brazil, and Mauritius, consistently showed that Montanov™ emulsifiers enhance hydration, positioning them as a viable solution for the global market.
References and notes
Mintel, GNPD
ABOUT THE AUTHOR
Marine Pasquier is an engineer specialized in biotechnologies. Since 2023, she has been working at Seppic as a Market & Digital Manager in the Beauty Care industry. Marine leverages her expertise in biotechnology to innovate and drive digital transformation in the beauty industry, contributing to Seppic’s mission of enhancing holistic well-being through advanced beauty care solutions.
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MAGAZINEVol. 20|Vol. 20 (5) - September / October 2025|Editorial
“Contents from Magazine” offers curated articles and insights from the personal and home care industry, focusing on ingredients, innovative technologies, sustainability, and regulatory developments.
