Vol. 17 Archives - Page 7 of 12

How can digital processing technology support innovation, new channels to market, and product-personalisation in the personal care industry?

23 May 2022 No Comments

Before the pandemic, consumer habits were already changing, with businesses expanding their online efforts to increase sales and develop better relationships with their consumers. The Covid-19 pandemic hit and accelerated the need to shop online, for everyday items such as personal care products. Now, continuous process innovation through the use of digital technology is high on the agenda for manufacturers to respond to consumer demand and tailor their products accordingly.
In this article, Rob Travis and Tom Machin of Stream Sensing, look at how personal care manufacturers should look towards digital processing technologies, such as real-time, in-line rheology measurement, to support their innovation efforts, new channels to market and product personalisation.

COSMETIC PEPTIDES INSIGHTS

23 May 2022 No Comments

Peptides are synthetic compounds, composed of at least two amino acids, that have been greatly exploited by the cosmetic industry since the 80’s because of their important anti-aging properties.

Their use continues to increase as, according to Mordor Intelligence (www.mordorintelligence.com), the cosmetic peptide synthesis market is expected to register a CAGR of 5.5 % (forecast period: 2022-2027).

The following abstracts illustrate the most recent findings in the use of cosmetic peptides in the personal care field, both hair and skin care. For instance, peptides composed of positively charged lysine or arginine are described as dual-acting cosmetics because of their antiaging and hair health effects. They are infact used as a valid alternative to oral antiaging retinoids, that stimulate the expression of the TGF-β2 citokine from fibroblasts (which in turn promote collagen expression for an antiaging purpose), but that also inhibits hair growth by silencing keratinocytes. The dipeptide prolyl-isoleucine is presented as another example of a cosmetic peptide exploited for the promotion of keratinocyte growth (via the FGFR signaling pathway). Finally, a market trend overview on the use of peptides in anti-aging products shows that Palmitoyl Oligopeptides are highly exploited in the cosmetic formulations (e.g., Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 from DSM).

Scientific online resources as Pubmed and Google Scholar were used to retrieve articles of interest. To screen for the most advanced research, articles were selected between the years 2020 and 2022 with the following keywords: cosmetic peptide, hair, cosmetics.

Silica in personal care applications

23 May 2022 No Comments

When formulating personal care products, aesthetics is an absolute requirement. Consumers simply will not accept even a well formulated product if it does not have the anticipated aesthetics. Silica is an additive that can provide important benefit to formulations and can be overlooked. Products formulated using silica can alter skin feel, mattify formulations, alter rheology and improve tactile qualities providing the highly prized dry powdery feel. The chemistry, nomenclature used and formulation of high performance products using this important class of raw materials is presented.

Sunscreen: Regulatory issues viewed by Cosmed

23 May 2022 No Comments

The regulations, which directly or indirectly regulate sunscreens, are constantly evolving due to consumer expectations, environmental issues, Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) assessments in terms of nano and endocrine disruptors. This raises the question of a formula conforming worldwide.

Factors determining the risks posed by UV filters for humans and the environment

20 May 2022 No Comments

The potential risk associated to UV filters used in sunscreen is a concern for both the consumer and the environmental health. However, these two issues are each related to different factors that determine the actual respective risk. Risk assessment must account for both the UV filter exposure and hazard in the given medium, two aspects that might be contrasted depending on whether one considers the consumer’s body or an environmental compartment. This opinion article discusses the key points that should be considered when assessing these risks.

ANTI-AGEING INSIGHTS

20 May 2022 No Comments

Anti-aging cosmetics are formulated with active ingredients that possess a beneficial effect at the topical level. While these benefits are the crucial key to the success of the product, the sensory impression following their application on the skin is equally important. The ideal anti-aging cosmetic must therefore take into account two fundamental aspects: from one side it must, for example, transfer nutrients and reduce signs of aging, from the other side its texture on the skin must be pleasant and its scent must induce well-being in the consumer. This literature review is therefore organised into two macro-areas:

1) a focus on anti-aging products, with active ingredients that are required to be tested in order to demonstrate their anti-aging potential. As indicated below, the protocatechuic acid showed anti-wrinkle property in in vitro assays and in vivo human skin testing, while a serum composed of vitamin C, vitamin E, and raspberry leaf cell culture extract were proved to have an anti-aging effect on the skin of fifty female volunteers. In addition, an overview of recent market trends on the use of botanicals for anti-aging cosmetics is also presented.

2) a focus on the sensorial evaluation, which considers a whole series of characteristics that will create, all together, the sensory profile of the cosmetic product formulation. In the opening abstract, the researchers initiate a sensory data set for an optimised identification of the different sensorial characteristics of the cosmetic product. The second abstract analyses the sensorial attributes of products based on Pickering emulsions against traditional surfactant-stabilized creams. The research group found, for instance, that TiO2 particles ensure the optimal whitening effect of the emulsions, and that there is a relationship between sensorial characteristics and physical properties.

Partnership

20 May 2022 No Comments

An old boss of mine from back in Manchester used to say that whenever

Hair tensegrity: An innovative and holistic approach to hair and scalp care

19 May 2022 No Comments

Traditionally, hair care has always focused on the visible part of hair: the hair shaft. Nowadays, we know that stress, pollution, nutrition, UV radiation, etc., they all affect the whole hair structure, including the scalp and the follicle. All these factors generate oxidative stress on both scalp and hair, finally causing scalp redness and flaking as well as hair breakage and fragility.
The new active Encapsulated Olea Europaea Callus Culture Lysate (EOECCL) nourishes and reinforces all the elements of the hair structure, improving its volume, hydration, and shine from within. Made from Olea europaea (olive) stem cells, the active ingredient’s mechanism of action consists in delivering a nourishing proteo-lipidic matrix to both the scalp and the hair cortex to strengthen, volumize, hydrate and revitalize the damaged hair and scalp. Several in vitro, ex vivo and in vivo trials demonstrate the ingredient’s activity and the new concept of restoring the Hair Tensegrity. A new way to deal with hair care, considering a ‘skinification’ approach.

Novel insights into collagen degradation help to tackle collagen-storage disorders

19 May 2022 No Comments

Cellular clearance is emerging as a fundamental process required by all cells and in all species to regulate important physiological processes, including aging and organism development. In mammals, a main clearing process is “autophagy”, a finely regulated cellular process committed to the degradation of different substrates, including collagen. Collagen is the most abundant protein in our body, and it has a great medical relevance in treating bones and joints complications along with tissue regeneration and wound healing. Herein we describe the principal genetic disorders of collagen formation, or collagenopathies, including Osteogenesis Imperfecta (OI), Ehlers-Danlos syndrome (EDS) and Spondyloepiphyseal dysplasia congenita (SEDC). We further discuss on the most recent research findings made on autophagy and on the cellular clearing processes along with the idea to tackle this process to find novel pharmacological approaches to treat collagenopathies.

Certified sustainable palm oil and clean beauty – The role palm oil derivatives play in meeting consumers’ expectations

19 May 2022 No Comments

It is estimated that at least 70% of all cosmetics contain palm kernel oil or palm kernel derivatives. This means that even if a company uses small volumes of palm oil or palm kernel in their products, every single cosmetic company has an opportunity and a responsibility to generate demand for sustainable palm oil derivatives and abandon the use of unsustainable palm oil. Substantial progress has been made in the oleochemicals supply chain, leading to a wide range of personal care ingredients being widely available as RSPO certified to the Mass Balance model. As demand for certified products continues to increase, production systems will also change and adapt to the request creating a positive impact for people and planet. When choosing sustainable palm oil derivatives, companies demonstrate commitment towards a bigger cause: ending deforestation and use of fire, improving the livelihood of millions of small-scale farmers in producing countries, and ensuring labour and communities’ rights are upheld.

Issue: Vol. 17

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