Issue: Vol. 18

Neurosensory evaluation a new approach for cosmetics

Thanks to advancements in neuroscience and technology since the 2010s, it is now possible to scientifically and dynamically evaluate the psychological and physiological impact of emotions related to the use of cosmetic products and the resulting actions. Experts agree that 6 primary emotions, sometimes more, constitute the common and universal base of individuals with: pleasure, sadness, fear, disgust, surprise, and anger. To objectify emotions scientifically, there is not a single simple and direct method but a multitude of methods. it is crucial to consider, in the design of the protocols, the claim sought, the type of product studied, the typology of consumers and to integrate all three expressive, physiological, and subjective components of the emotion.

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Fruit by-products as source of new cosmetic ingredients – A case study and future perspectives

The demand for valorization of fruit by-products is stronger than ever due to environmental issues, being a challenge for economy and society. A panoply of studies has been carried out on fruit by-products to identify the phytochemicals present and evaluate its biological safety and efficacy for humans. The bioactive compounds present are mainly polyphenols, fatty acids, minerals, and vitamins, which provide skin beneficial effects, such as photoprotection, anti-aging and anti-inflammatory effects, among other activities. Therefore, the cosmetic field may take advantage of these high-added value ingredients. This paper aims to summarize the potential cosmetic applications of fruit by-products, with a case study of chestnut and kiwiberry by-products. A critical analysis of opportunities and challenges of these active cosmetic ingredients on the market is also provided.

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Why well-aging is well-received by consumers

From karat gold masks to intensive plastic surgeries, consumers have long bought into products and services that promise a youthful glow within the wellness industry. The anti-aging market is forecasted to be about $71.7 billion USD in 2023 (1), yet there has been recent backlash surrounding the negative connotations associated with anti-aging. The unrealistic beauty standards incorporated into the anti-aging campaigns, often amplified by celebrities and social media, are receiving their own facelift.

Well-aging is a new spin for consumers in the pursuit of being well for the sake of well-being. Rather than shame consumers for their inability to delay aging, this campaign encourages consumers to embrace aging and look inward to understand what aging means to them. This twist to health and wellness is growing in popularity as more and more consumers are prioritizing feeling good along in addition to looking good. Health-driven trends, like screen fasting to habit trackers, are pushing back on extreme trends as a means of prioritizing both self-love and self-care. Regardless of whether the face powder, elective surgery, or mindfulness journal is purchased, each day the consumer gets one day older. But the goods and services that fill up those days will change based on who in the market is best meeting the consumer needs. Companies must listen to the consumers to ideate and build products that fulfill the gaps in their lives. The well-aging space is demonstrating the impact of tweaking the messaging and the products to better engage with their consumer.

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Stabilizing fragrance in fabric softeners with fermentation-derived cellulose

Globally, consumers are washing millions of loads of laundry every year – and relying on liquid fabric softener to not only combat wrinkles and static cling but add fragrance as well. Many fabric softeners today rely on cationic surfactants to bind by electrostatic attraction to the negatively charged groups on fabric fibres and smooth them, effectively lowering friction. Liquid fabric softener also delivers fragrance; but as it drains with the rinse cycle, it takes some fragrance benefits along with it. Some formulations are also not biodegradable, or they may not break down before reaching waterways and potentially harm the ecosystem (1). Any way to maximize biodegradability and minimize loss while still delivering softening and scent performance will significantly drive this market segment and help reduce aquatic pollution.
In this article, we will assess new cationic-compatible and readily biodegradable, fermentation-derived cellulose technology in the form of CELLULON® RC-76 Cellulose Liquid to stabilize biodegradable, encapsulated fragrance in liquid fabric softeners, and the effect of that stability on fragrance perception.

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Roziani, Zulkifli – Exhibition Director, in-cosmetics Global & Formulation Summit at Reed Exhibitions – in-cosmetics global

As trends such as conscious consumerism and clean beauty rise, sustainability is at the forefront for personal care and cosmetic ingredient suppliers, manufacturers, brands, and consumers. With this in mind, in-cosmetics Global, the world’s leading personal care ingredients show, is returning to Barcelona, Spain, this March with a brand-new Sustainability Zone where exhibitors and visitors can discover the tangible actions that they can take to improve the footprint of their products and learn how the industry is working towards a net-zero future. The Sustainability Zone succeeds previous years’ Sustainability Corner in size and scope as the show ensures that sustainability and the industry’s commitment to the environment remains a core focus.

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What are the regulatory challenges regarding microbiome in cosmetics?

Due to the possible cosmetic benefit of microbiota to keep skin in good health, microbiome-related cosmetic products are a growing trend. As per the novelty of the concept dedicated reflection was needed for cosmetics and International Cooperation on Cosmetic Regulation (ICCR) was a real opportunity to harmonize related terms and definition. Last meeting in June 2022 have led to the publication of specific definitions for cosmetics.
Some challenges remain: for R&D and analytic a key question is the control of the stability and distinction between intentionally and unintentionally added microorganism. Communication towards consumers should be also clearer to explain the mode of action of these products.

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The first COSMOS compliant, wax-based pearlizer with strong hair care performance benefits

The demand for certified natural cosmetic and care products is increasingly growing. At the same time, consumers expect that personal care products are achieving better effects paired with attractive sensory properties. In 2022, a new wax-based pearlizer was launched that offers a combination of both requirements: based on naturally derived ingredients, it expands the spectrum of eco-friendly beauty products while delivering an extraordinary performance compared to formulations containing conventional ethylene glycol distearate-based pearlizers. For cosmetic manufacturers, the new pearlizer offers another opportunity to enlarge their product spectrum for natural cosmetics – a market that is expected to grow globally at a speedy rate (1, a).

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