Seventeen instant glow – Instant bronzing mousse

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Self-tanning technology has been around for some 40 years and has hugely developed during this time.
The discovery of the acute and chronic damage that can be caused by exposure to the sun rays has upgraded the role of self-tanning to a safer alternative to sun bathing and sun beds.
This product has been developed as a mousse, utilising a foaming pump.
Dihydroxyacetone is the main ingredient featured in this product.
Regarded as a difficult-to-formulate ingredient, Dihydroxyacetone, or simply DHA, can successfully be formulated into stable products if some precautions are taken.
The choice of ingredients is critical: the presence of Nitrogen-containing molecules, in particular, can trigger the reactivity of DHA.
Amino groups will undergo the same Maillard reaction that takes place with the amines of the stratum corneum, resulting in discolouration of the product and consumption of the DHA: not only will this result in a less aesthetically pleasing product, but also in decreased efficacy.
Other commonly used ingredients that should be avoided are, amongst others: EDTA, polyacrylates, Alpha Hydroxy Acids, Titanium Dioxide, Zinc Oxide and some pigments.
In order for DHA to work at its best and to be stable, pH of the formula should be acidic (Citric Acid has been used in this case).
But what is DHA and how does it work?
DHA is a triose, i.e. a simple carbohydrate formed by three C atoms.
DHA does not work at melanin level – it reacts with the amino acids in the upper skin layer resulting in a brown colour that is very similar to a real tan (Maillard reaction).
As the DHA molecules are firmly anchored to the skin, this colour cannot be washed-off and it will fade with time due to mechanical abrasion and natural exfoliation.
It is normally used at around 3 – 5% for a light tan and 5 – 8% for a darker colour.
The product contains Glycerin and Propylene Glycol.
Whilst the former is widely used in the industry for its many properties, the latter is becoming a bit of an old-fashioned ingredient, with other glycols being preferred to it, even though a biofermented version is now available.
In this product Propylene Glycol has been more likely introduced as the solvent for a number of plant extracts utilised.
Decyl Glucoside, a vegetable-derived surfactant obtained from the condensation of decyl alcohol with glucose, is used to provide some foaming properties that, in combination with the dispenser will generate a mousse.
This surfactant will also provide some solubilisation for the few lipophilic ingredients, along with Polysorbate 20, a “golden standard” used in the industry for few decades.
Polysorbate 20 is a mixture of laurate esters of sorbitol and sorbitol anhydrides condensed with approximately 20 moles of ethylene oxide.
Apart from the fragrance, the product contains a few oily substances, i.e. Tocopherol, Jojoba Oil, Carrot Oil, Argan Oil and Orange Oil.
Tocopherol plays an important role in skin-care preparations thanks to its potent anti-oxidant properties.
Tocopherol protects cell membranes and other important cell structures against photo-oxidative and oxidative stress, i.e. against causes for damage which are produced by free radicals of different kinds.
Because of its anti-oxidant action, Tocopherol also helps protect other oils used in the product from oxidation which can ultimately lead to discoloration and unpleasant odours.
Jojoba Oil (Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil) derives its name from the Mexican “Chohobba”.
The first written references to jojoba date back to the 18th century.
In 1789, the Jesuit priest Francisco Xavier Clavijer published “Storia della California” (History of California), a book in which he described the Indian use of jojoba oil (“Hohowi” in local language) for healing wounds and protecting hair against the dry desert air.
Jojoba oil is technically a liquid wax consisting of nearly 60% cerides.
Cerides are C20 and C22 fatty acids esterified with alcohols of the same aliphatic chain length.
As a result, Jojoba oil has low oxidability and offers remarkable stability to heat and light.
Having a composition similar to sebum it can increase the permeability of the Stratum Corneum by normalizing the skin barrier functions.
Argan oil (Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil) is the fixed oil obtained via traditional methods from the nut kernels of the fruit of the argan tree.
The argan tree is only found in the South West of Marocco and is related to the shea tree.
The small oval green / yellow fruit becomes brown when ripe (which takes approximately two years) and contains a very hard shell that encloses up to three kernels.
These kernels are roasted before cold pressing to produce a yellow / orange oil with a characteristic nutty odour.
Argan oil has been used for centuries for the care of skin, hair and nails, where it helps to soften, strengthen, moisturise and protect.
The oil is rich in E.F.A. ω-6 Linoleic Acid (on average 29 – 37%) and it contains Tocopherols which give the oil anti-free radical properties
The oil is easily absorbed without leaving the skin oily.
Carrot Oil (Daucus Carota Sativa Seed Oil) is extracted from Daucus Carota of the Apiaceae family.
This is the oil extracted from the seeds and should not be confused with the macerated oil made by infusing carrots in a base oil.
Carrot Oil contains apinene, carotol, daucol, limonene, b-bisabolene, b-elemene, cis-bbergamotene, geraniol, geranyl acetate, caryophyllene, caryophyllene oxide,
asarone, α-terpineol, terpinen 4-ol, γ-decanolactone, coumarin and β-
selinene among others.
Main constituents are carotenes, xanthophylls, sterols, aliphatic and terpene alcohols, tocopherols and hydrocarbons.
It is a source of Provitamin A and it is often used in sun-care and self-tanning products as said to improve the tan.
Orange Oil (Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil) is the essential oil is extracted by simple pressure from the outer, coloured part of the peel of the Oranges.
The Orange tree was originally native of the Far East, particularly China and India, and was not used medicinally in Europe until the 17th century.
The oil is deep golden yellow with the characteristic orange peel aroma.
The therapeutic properties of orange were first recognised in ancient China, where the dried peel had been used for centuries to help relief coughs and colds.
Sweet Orange essential oil is also extensively used in food flavouring.
It can be used in skin-care for soothing dry and irritated skin as well as a fresh and citrusy fragrance.
The product features several plant extracts.
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract is derived from the Aloe Vera plant, a perennial succulent plant, member of the Asphodelaceae family.
This plant grows in semi-arid, tropical and subtropical regions, mainly in Sudan and the south of Africa. Its succulent leaves are elongated, lanceolated, up to 50 cm long and 7 cm wide, arranged in a rosette. In young individuals, the leaves seem to grow directly from the ground, while older individuals have a short, thick stem. Flowers are small, tubular, arranged in dense, red or yellow inflorescences.
Aloe Vera gel found in the leaves is mainly composed of mucilaginous polysaccharides, which can retain a large amount of water, thus allowing the plant to live in drought conditions
Other minor components identified in Aloe Vera gel are amino acids, glycoproteins, enzymes, hydroxyanthracenic heterosides, chromone and pyrone derivatives, saponins, sterols, organic acids and salts, inorganic acids and salts and vitamins.
Due to its content in active ingredients, Aloe shows several skin properties, e.g. hydrating, soothing, refreshing, re-epithelising and anti-inflammatory.
Chamomile (Anthemis Nobilis) has always been known as a plant with a wide range of curative properties.
In the Ancient times, Egyptians had dedicated Chamomile to the Sun.
In Greece, Discoride used to prescribe the plant to relieve eye ailments.
In classical Rome, Gallien recommended the plant to clear up troubles of inflammatory origin.
Chamomile Extract is normally used in skin-care preparations as a soothing ingredient.
Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract derives from Cucumber, a vegetable rich in vitamin C and vitamin B.
It has trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) regulatory activity.
This activity is due to the vitamins and carbohydrates in cucumber.
Cucumber juice is an excellent treatment for skin rash, inflammation, etc., when applied as a lotion or used to wash the affected area.
The use of Cucumber has been popular since Cleopatra
Cucumber Extract is used to formulate cosmetic products with moisturizing, refreshing, decongestant and soothing actions.
Cucumis Melo Fruit Extract is the extract from Melons (Cucumis melo), that belong to the cucumber family.
The wild types are found above all in the east Mediterranean area, on the Arabic peninsula and in East Africa.
The queens of ancient Egypt would refresh themselves by cutting a ripe fruit into slices and, lying down on a bed, would spread the slices over their faces and necks.
After an hour they would arise refreshed, with the skin tight and moisturised.
More commonly known as cantaloupe or honeydew melon, Cucumis melo is a fruit that is a rich source of vitamins A, C, and a wide range of various antioxidant compounds
Collagen is also featured in this product.
Collagen is a natural protein found in the connective tissue of the skin (where it accounts for 70% of its content), as well as in the organs, muscles, bone and cartilage.
In fact, there are more than 25 different types of collagen in our bodies.
In the skin, it adds suppleness, plumpness, flexibility and spring, and, together with elastin, adds texture and structure.
However, as skin ages or is exposed to sun damage, its collagen content is reduced, making skin progressively drier, thinner, flatter, less flexible and more prone to wrinkles.
Since animal-derived collagen also retains many times its own weight in water, it can be used as conditioning, hydrating and suppleness-boosting ingredients in cosmetic products.
The product is preserved by Chlorphenesin and Phenoxyethanol.
It contains also Disodium EDTA as a chelating agent and has been fragranced and coloured (CI 16035, CI 19140, CI 42090).
Decyl Glucoside is likely to be the 1% cut-off ingredient.