Issue: Vol. 17

Post-Pandemic beauty: The key role of storytelling

Technologies, climate emergencies, and the need for human connection are all among the major global issues set to influence trends in the coming years. By 2026, the COVID-19 crisis will most likely be behind us, and global economies are forecasted to have returned to at least their pre-crisis levels of prosperity. However, by then consumer behaviour will have changed for the long term. For this reason, it is fundamental to understand the best way to communicate innovations through a compelling storytelling.

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Sustainable beauty: Necessity, substantiation and innovation

Sustainability is multifaceted; consisting of three pillars: economic, social and environmental. Although once seen as a policy or trend in cosmetics, sustainability has become an inevitability for all. The last five years have demonstrated a noticeable acceleration for manufacturers to improve their sustainability profile. Moreover, the impact of the covid-19 pandemic has further raised consumer awareness of the health, environmental and social contributions of a product.

A company’s green growth goals should reflect a reduced environmental impact coupled with a positive, social responsibility policy. Innovation and design cannot work in isolation, and throughout the supply chain there is a need to think holistically and ensure traceability in order to substantiate product claims, and support consumers in their purchasing decisions.

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The future of digital formulators: How AI could transform the personal care industry

Artificial Intelligence is already strongly embedded into our daily lives. However, its full potential in the personal care industry remains unclear to many. Some see the technology as the panacea to many of the industry’s challenges. Others see it as a threat to their job and a way for some of the large players to further establish their dominance.
This article provides a perspective on the current state of the technology in the personal care industry and how it could evolve in the future. It also tries to bring people to rethink their relationship to Artificial Intelligence, and approach to innovation and collaboration more generally.

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Biomimicry & Cosmetics: when nature gives us inspiration

Could cosmetic innovation benefit from what nature already knows? Yes! There’s no doubt about it when you consider that living organisms have already virtually every function desirable in cosmetics products. As a market that thrives on innovation, the skincare industry is understandably becoming more and more interested in this scientific approach. Biomimicry, which consists of taking inspiration from strategies found in living organisms, thus represents an unprecedented opportunity to imagine new active molecules for skincare. Whether through the observation of self-medication behaviour in animals, strategies of resistance to extreme conditions or cases of exceptional longevity, we will uncover here the first promising paths to identify the active bioinspired molecules of tomorrow.

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Cosmetic preservation – It all starts with the factory

Consumers are very aware and many are concerned about the materials used to manufacture cosmetic products. Preservatives often attract attention and rightly so because they are reactive materials which perform an essential role protecting products from many challenges throughout their entire lifecycle. There is one challenge that preservative systems should not have to deal with: that is the risk of microbiological contamination from raw materials, components or during production.
In this article we discuss the basic requirements for manufacturing cosmetic products which ensure that the added preservatives are not depleted during the production process and levels of preservatives are optimised to protect the products without exposing the consumers to higher than necessary levels of these materials to compensate for unsatisfactory production practices.

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Naturally based citrate polyesters for hair conditioning

The process of conditioning is an important part of the hair care regimen. In order to provide adequate hair conditioning, several new technologies have been developed. Recently, the focus of these technologies has been to provide better hair conditioning and reducing the carbon footprint of the formulation. In short, the quest for a natural, stable conditioning formulation platform for hair has been a long and difficult development. This work focuses on the incorporation of a series of naturally based citrate polyesters into a hair conditioning formulation. These formulations will be studied under the microscope and tested for wet and dry combing. This work has shown that the formulations provide superior conditioning when compared to sodium lauryl sulfate and can be incorporated into hair formulations to produce a natural hair care product.

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Review of clinical studies for claim validations of European oral hygiene cosmetics – Part 2

The efficacy tests in the field of cosmetics used in oral care are evolving more and more with the arrival of new technological resources. In order to correctly support the claims of effectiveness, it becomes essential to understand which tests are currently available and which are the most reliable. In this review, the most widespread claims in the cosmetic market are taken into account and the mainly used tests to validate them, are reported. Research has shown that existing tests exploit specific endpoints. Consequently, it seems that a gold standard does not exist, and that the choice of efficacy tests strongly depends on the type of claim, equipment and experience of the experts involved.

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