Issue: Vol. 17

Clean beauty: Chemicals, claims and consumers

19 May 2022 No Comments

The “clean beauty” trend, often synonymous with so-called ‘free from’ claims, is commonly associated with safety. The fact that ‘clean’ as a claim is undefined has not meant consumers limit their expectations of ‘clean’ to just a few ingredients since ‘clean’ can extend to brand policies centred around sustainability and ethics as well. Very recently some of the core aspects of ‘clean beauty’ have been indirectly introduced into the EU regulatory sphere by way of the Chemical Strategy for Sustainability (CSS), which aims to better protect human health and the environment as well as boost innovation for safe and sustainable chemicals. Various initiatives and strategies connected to the CSS are already underway including cosmetics.

Read More »

The paradox of clean beauty

19 May 2022 No Comments

Clean beauty is a powerful movement driven and defined by consumer perception of just what “clean” means. Hearing the term “clean” beauty may induce thoughts of honesty for some and sustainability or cruelty-free to others, but even these terms have their own nuances. Without formal definition, the concept of “clean beauty” can be molded to fit what consumers want it to be, even if the actual product doesn’t meet those requirements. Perception can override reality when brands develop campaigns to imply rather than claim certain values they may not need to uphold. But the true test of consumer perceptual satisfaction is not all in the messaging, but also in product performance. Depending on consumer needs, some products can be more enticing than others through achieving product efficacy. Through understanding true preferences of consumers, brands can better address the nonnegotiable needs for products as intimate as cosmetics for ideals such as “clean beauty.”

Read More »

Imperfectly perfect: moisturising and anti-ageing potential of an oil-soluble extract from rejected avocados

18 May 2022 No Comments

Avocado (Persea Americana) consumption has experienced a remarkably fast increase in demand, which inevitably leads to significant waste along the production chain. In recent years, the increased awareness of the environmental impact linked to food loss generated a huge rise in demand for sustainable goods. In this study we evaluated the moisturising effect, and the mechanisms behind it, of an oil-soluble extract from aesthetically imperfect, and thus rejected, avocado fruits cultivated in Sicily. Through in vitro and ex-vivo studies, we demonstrated that this new active ingredient significantly up-regulated proteins with key functions in the maintenance of intracellular water balance. Moreover, we showed that the extract promoted an overall improvement of epidermal barrier function by increasing the synthesis of lipid structures. Finally, clinical studies showed that the extract improved skin hydration and dermal density.

Read More »

To test or not to test – A very good question indeed!

18 May 2022 No Comments

When HPC Today invited me to contribute this article, I was delighted at the prospect, yet concerned that, yet again, the industry needs reminding that the requirement to support product claims. What is it then, that despite the global Cosmetic Regulations, notably our own here in the EU, Marketing, Copy writers, and even many in ‘R&D’ still don’t get when it comes to testing cosmetics to support product claims? Why does that very word ‘test’ cause stress among many in the industry? This article looks at the key reasons why; the body of evidence; the types of testing available, and their differences; how these differences impact on not only what claims you make, but also interpretation and business risk in its wider context.

Read More »

How do you know if a cosmetic product contains fragrance allergens?

16 March 2022 No Comments

In the European Union, under Annex III to Regulation 1223/2009, 26 allergenic fragrances must be listed on the ingredients list of a cosmetics product if they exceed proscribed amounts. This requirement relates to the need to protect consumers from a range of allergic reactions – from hives to anaphylaxis. Following opinion SCCS/1459/11 of the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety, this list could be expanded to cover 82 substances, including a variety of pure substances and natural extracts. We look at the reasons behind this possible expansion and the best route forward for manufacturers and suppliers to ensure compliance in cosmetic products when operating in Europe.

Read More »
@2026 - All Right Reserved - P.IVA 06817720151

Login